Steve:
I did about the same on my 55-1st & the rear corners that were a snap
compared to the front. I was paranoid on things not fitting so I did all
the repairs with frame leveled - cab bolted to the frame - doors in place
when needed for fit & only replaced a section at a time and a couple of
cross braces when I thought there might be some movement. I purchases the
skin corners & fab'ed the floor / toe board panels - in sections as not to
loose the shape. Couple spots I had to get dimensions from the other side -
all in all it came out pretty good with all butt welds on the patches &
door
gaps are like my 04 GMC.
O and I had to teach myself how to mig weld first - started on the floors -
lot less weld grinding later on. Every minute you spend for a good fit -
1/16'' max gap - you will get it back 10 fold on the finishing - found I
would get patch close to the size - felt pen around / under fit area -
scribe a good line around & grind the truck to match the patch. I got so
confident I made 5 window out of my 3 window with panels & gages off a
scraped donor.
Good luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Stuckmeyer" <slstusmc@yahoo.com>
To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 3:24 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Cab Bracing
>I finally bought the patch panels for my 51 3100. Does anyone know of any
> websites or have advice on the best way to brace the cab to replace
> forward
> in/out cab corners and forward floor/toeboard? The cab is sitting on the
> frame, but not bolted, and doors off. I did all that awhile back when I
> did
> the frame. I took measurements before and after and nothing has shifted
> on
> the cab. Any help from the all wise and knowing would be greatly
> appreciated!
> Thanks
> Steve Stuckmeyer
> St Peters, MO
|