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Re: Fillers - was "rust buckets"

To: <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>, <jphender@soli.inav.net>
Subject: Re: Fillers - was "rust buckets"
From: "Hal Cummings"<halc@sequoia.genauto.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 10:30:35 -0500
Reply-to: "Hal Cummings"<halc@sequoia.genauto.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
     Jim-
     
     Properly prepared and applied any filler should not craze, crack or 
     fall off.
     
     Surface preparation is critical.  Sand the area thoroughly with 80 
     grit, It must be bare metal with no rust. Wash with a degreaser like 
     Prep-Sol, then blow dry.
     
     Select the right filler for the job.  For areas more than 1/4" thick, 
     which should be rare if you've done the metal work properly, use a 
     fiberglass filled product. For areas 1/4" or less, regular polyester 
     fillers are fine.  For areas less than 1/8" thick there is a putty 
     (the exact name escapes me) which flows like glass and leaves a 
     beautiful blended edge.  The putty can be applied over primer if you 
     find some low spots or scatches after priming. All of these are 
     available from any auto body supply shop.
     
     The key here is to work the filler firmly into the area being filled.  
     This is critcal for adhesion and to avoid air bubbles which will prove 
     fatal to the repair over time.  Use the plastic speaders supplied with 
     the product.  When using the putty, I find a soft rubber spreader more 
     effective.
     
     If you are working large flat areas, use a long flat sanding block.  
     It helps to start working the high parts off while the product is in 
     the final stages of curing, but before it fully hardens.  Check with a 
     fingernail.  If you can pick at it, but not get a glob of stuff on 
     your finger, it's ready.
     
     Use progressively finer grades of paper and be sure to feather the 
     edges.  When checking your work, run your hand flat over the spots, 
     not your fingertips.  You'll find it easier to detect low spots.
     
     Once you feel you are close to where you want to be, spray a very 
     light coat of primer over the area and sand again.  The high and low 
     spots will become obvious, as will problems with edges.
     
     Final sanding before priming should be with 400 grit paper to give the 
     paint something to stick to.
     
     Anyone inclined to spend the effort can do this, and it's pretty cheap 
     too.
     
     Hope this helps!
     
     Hal
     
     


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Fillers - was "rust buckets" 
Author:  <jphender@soli.inav.net > at ccout
Date:    1/8/98 8:47 AM


     
Hi Folks,
     
I've been watching the thread about fillers and would be very interested 
in people's experience/opinions.
     
I have all new metal where the rusted out portions would be.  However, the 
work is imperfect in that there are depressions and ripples etc.  Are 
there any acceptable fillers for this?  I've seen a lot of Bon-dough 
falling off of old cars (or measling or crazing or cracking).  
     
The snap-down rim on my car is strong but pitted and could use something 
like Nory mentioned.
     
As I don my asbestos underwear (waiting for the "do it right" comments) I 
would like to espouse the virtues of just halting the deterioration. 
Sometimes that is all us "financially challenged" folks can do for the 
subsequent owners.
     
Thanks for the help!
     
Jim Henderson
     
'69 Sprite MKIV HAN9U78817G  
     
     



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