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Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.

To: spridgets@autox.team.net, toobmany@bigpond.com
Subject: Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.
From: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 09:21:16 -0700 (PDT)
Reply-to: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
I had originally installed a 1' clutch slave cylinder, because I thought it 
would give me more of a mechanical advantage, but when I finally got around to 
installing my original 'bugeye' clutch and brake lines, I found that the 
fittings were not compatible with the newer clutch cylinder, so I switched back 
to the smaller one.

As far as the brakes go, I haven't really had a chance to 'road test' them yet 
(it's hard to drive without the seat installed). So I really don't have any 
idea 
how 'hard' they are going to feel in real usage. I do have a new Locheed remote 
brake booster that I can install if the brake effort is too much, but for right 
now I'd like to see if I can get by without it. In any case I'll have to wait 
until I get it on the road. ( you don't know anyone with a 3/4" dual MC that 
would like to trade me for a rebuilt 7/8" one with a nice 'hammerite' finish?? 
;-)

 - Bryan
 
PS - Another note about the Dot 5 silicon fluid.. it's a lot thicker than 
standard fluid, making it much harder to bleed all the air out. I believe this 
is probably one of the major reasons many people complain that it makes their 
brakes feel 'spongy'. In retrospect it appears that I still had a lot of air in 
my lines after I first installed it. In the mean time, I'm sticking with LMA 
type fluid now that I got everything working. But next time, I'll probably try 
silicon again now that I know how to treat it. 
 
>To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>X-Priority: 3
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>
>You've put in a ton of work however for disk brakes, later drums and the
>1275 clutch you need to drop your master cylinder back to .75"/.75" and
>increase the clutch slave to 1" to get decent pedal feel.  Resleeving will
>be required as will new pistons for master and slave cylinders. 
>Alternatively find a M/C from an1100 MkII and a clutch slave from a 1275
>Spridget.  One good thing about the heavy brakes is that you'll have to try
>REALLY hard to lock them up.
>
>Peter
>
>----------
>From: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>
>To: spridgets@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.
>Date: Tuesday, 20 July 1999 6:14
>
>First of all I would like to thank everyone for their input. I received a
>lot of 
>great suggestions. Being new to this list, I was greatly impressed by the
>number 
>of responses I received.
>I wanted to share with everyone my conclusions/solutions (hopefully) to my 
>clutch/brake  problems on my bugeye restoration project.
>
>Bugeye (1275 with ribcase)
>-Front disk brake conversion 
>-rear brake upgrade to later dual acting cylinders (3/4")
>-original 7/8 dual master (rebuilt by me)
>-new teflon/braded steel flexible brake lines
>-reused original 'hard' steel brake an clutch lines (cleaned and repainted)
>-new clutch slave cylinder (early type)
>
>all components above were 'new' locheed, except the 'disk brake calipers'
>which 
>were new rebuilds from MM.
>
>For the rear drums rubbing on the 'new-style' brake backing plates'. I
>finally 
>found a machine shop near my work, that took off 1/16" the rear lip of the
>drum. 
>They seem to be fine now. Apparently the early 1/4 elliptical rear axle 
>doesn't 
>allow as much clearance between the back of the drum, and the 'newer style 
>backing plates. (the drums themselves are the same for all years)
>
>
>Unfortunately, I think there were 'several' contributing factors to my 
>clutch/'master-cylinder' problems, so I don't really know, if the 'dot 5' 
>silicon fluid was a cause, or a victim. In any case, I removed the MC from
>the 
>car, and thoroughly cleaned it. It appeared that my original honing  of the
>
>cylinders was still too rough, because both the cylinder pistons were
>binding in 
>the cylinders, and not always returning all the way. I re-honed both
>cylinders, 
>until they felt a lot smoother, and used 'Locheed red rubber lube" grease
>during 
>reassembly on the inner components. 
>After reinstalling the newly rebuilt (again) MC in the car, I flushed over
>a 
>quart of LMA brake fluid through the entire system (clutch and brakes).
>Getting 
>the 'silicon dot 5' completely out of the system is really tough (it coats,
>and 
>sticks to everything, and nothing seems to cut it). In any case, I noticed
>while 
>bleeding, that the silicon, and LMA fluids definitely stay separated. The 
>silicon fluid is lighter, so it floats to the top. Hopefully after driving
>the 
>car a bit, whatever residual silicon was in the system will move to the top
>of 
>the wheel cylinders, and come out with the next flushing.
>In any case, after reflushing. The brakes feel 'rock solid', and the clutch
>
>feels very precise' (more like a cable clutch), hard at first, and then it
>gets 
>easier about 1/2 down. The clutch still seems pretty strong though, and I 
>wouldn't want to do too much 'stop and go' driving with it. I wonder if it
>has 
>anything to do with the 'roller throw-out bearing' I have installed??
>
>Thanks again everyone, I might just get this beast on the road yet.
>
> - Bryan
>
>BTW - I can actually pump the brake pedal, and work the bleed nipple on the
>left 
>rear brake at the same time ;-)
>


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