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Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.

To: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>
Subject: Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.
From: Mike Maclean <macleans@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 12:07:59 -0700
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <199907151851.LAA25427@shorter.eng.sun.com>
Reply-to: Mike Maclean <macleans@earthlink.net>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Bryan,
     In all the comments I've heard from this list and everything I've read in
periodicals, SOL Technical Info (you might want to check this out) and a few 
other
sources, the conversion procedures you said you performed SHOULD work O.K.  I've
also read that it doesn't always convert trouble free.  I htink there was a 
thread
recently on this list about using genuine Lockheed rubber components as opposed 
to
other materials.  A few of the more experienced listers seem to side with 
Lockheed
rubber and Castrol LMA only in these systems.  While I'm sure there are listers 
that
will say they have converted successfully to synthetic, maybe they will add to 
this
information on what made their conversion successful.
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite

Bryan Vandiver wrote:

> BTW - The lines were flushed individually off the car, and blown out with
> compressed air, and left in the sun to dry. I didn't want everyone to think I
> actually fill up the master with carb cleaner, and flushed the entire system
> that way ;-)
>
>  - Bryan
> >X-Accept-Language: en
> >MIME-Version: 1.0
> >To: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@eng.sun.com>
> >CC: spridgets@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: Bugeye rear brake upgrade and clutch problems.
> >
> >Bryan,
> >   In my experience, you should NOT flush the brake lines with anything other
> than
> >brake fluid.  If there is still too much gunk inside, you might consider new
> steel
> >brake lines.  Not as daunting a task as it sounds.  There are several options
> >available to replace them.  You can get them bre-bent from Classic Tube, get 
>a
> kit
> >of lines from Moss Motors that you bend into shape by copying the original
> lines or
> >you can buy a flaring tool from MiniMania and Classic tube will sell you any
> length
> >of 1/8th steel tubing and make your own kit.
> >     As to the synthetic brake fluid, if you are using Lockheed RUBBER parts 
>in
> your
> >master cylinder and slave cylinders, you might be experiencing swelling of 
>the
> >rubber.  Synthetic fluid and rubber parts don't seem to mix very well.
> >     If you go back and flush the system out a couple of times with Castrol 
>LMA
> >Brake Fluid, rebuild the master cylinder and slave cylinders with new rubber
> kits
> >and use the Castrol fluid exclusively, I think your brake problem will be
> solved.
> >Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
> >
> >Bryan Vandiver wrote:
> >
> >> Hello,
> >>
> >> I'm just putting the finishing touches on my bugeye restoration project, 
>and
> >> have run into some issues with the rear brakes, and clutch.
> >>
> >> I am using a rebuilt 7/8 inch dual master, that was bead-blasted, and 
>honed.
> I
> >> cleaned out all the brake and clutch lines with carb cleaner, and then blew
> them
> >> out with compressed air. Since I was upgrading to front disk brakes, I
> thought
> >> it would be best to upgrade the rear as well, so I pulled the brake backing
> >> plates off a '78 rb midget (as well as the parking brake linkages), and
> >> installed a new set of 3/4" brake cylinders. I am using my 'original' 
>bearing
> >> hubs, and brake drums ( dated 7/58). once I installed everything, and 
>bolted
> on
> >> the wheels, I noticed a lot of binding on the rear wheels ( in fact, I 
>could
> >> barely push the car out of the garage). After taking off both drums, they
> both
> >> appear to be contacting the later brake backing plates. I compared my early
> >> brake drums to later ones, and they have the same exact distance from the
> back
> >> lip of the drum to the mounting surface. Has anyone done this, or run into
> this
> >> problem??
> >>
> >> As for the clutch...
> >> This is the 'stiffest' clutch I have experience in any car, is that typical
> of
> >> sprites??
> >> I have a ribcase trans, but the new clutch slave cylinder is the 'early
> style'
> >> 7/8" (moss 180-655), to be compatible with my original clutch line and
> master.
> >> All other clutch components are '1275 type' including the slave cyl
> 'push-rod'.
> >> The 'new' clutch kit was part# COM710/kit from MiniMania.
> >> Besides being very tough to bleed, are these clutches really that hard to
> >> disengage? I can't imaging driving with this in traffic!
> >>
> >> BTW - I am using 'sythetic brake fluid' since I am using all new 
>components,
> and
> >> all lines were'flushed' first.
> >>
> >> Regards - Bryan Vandiver (San Jose, CA)
> >


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