Hi David,
I have a contact in CA that over bores the brake MC's. He also sells the kits
for the over bore. This is a much better way to go. He's here in N. CA too. I
have seen his work on MGA's which use the same MC, so a Sprite MC is the same
unit.
Let me know and I will get the name for you.
Rick
"Vrba, Dave" wrote:
> Sierra Specialty gets my vote too. Great turn around and much cheaper than
> most.
>
> Sierra Specialty Automotive (Joe)
> 3494 Chandler Road
> Quincy, CA 95971
> 1 800 4-BRASS-1
> 1 800 427-2771
> 530 283-4845 FAX
>
> Just a note on a couple of things if you do a brass sleeve job on your MC.
>
> 1) Clean out all the threaded holes with a tap before you try to
> reassemble. The "cleaning" process clogged up the threads in my unit.
> Assembly is much easier. (Bench bleed)
> 2) STAY AWAY FROM PAPER GASKETS. Use cork. I had a "wicking" leak from
> the top gasket when I used a paper gasket. Couldn't stop it with all the
> torque I could muster on the hold down screws. Switched to cork, leak
> stopped.
>
> David L. Vrba
> '62 Sprite MKII
> Dublin, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: grbyrns@ucdavis.edu [mailto:grbyrns@ucdavis.edu]
> Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 8:11 AM
> To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Dems da ...
>
> Please be sure to very carefully examine the bottom of each MC bore. The
> water in the fluid settles to the bottom and will corrode small pits in the
> bottom of the bores that will prevent ever getting a leak free MC. The
> fella at Sierra Speciality(check archives) bores them out and sleeves them
> with brass. He did a great job on mine and not a drop of leakage since.
>
> Regards, Glen Byrns
>
> >I got the courage up to pull the MC out. The first thing that I learned
> was
> >don't push in on the pushrods when the brake lines are off. :)
> >
> >The piece coming out, that is identified in Hayne's manual as a brake bore
> >'valve', looks different from the Lockheed supplied part. The piece that
> >came out is a rubber over plastic assembly while the supplied part is
> >plastic with a tiny little metal strip in it. The new part doesn't look
> >like it is the same depth. Anyone have any info for me?
> >
> >For a system that has been bled so many times, it was scary to see the crap
> >coming out of there. What I'm seeing on the metal doesn't make me feel all
> >that good either. I'm struggling with myself over whether to try to hone
> it
> >myself or bring it in and let someone who knows what they are doing, advise
> >me on its condition. My opinion is that it can probably be cleaned up.
> >There are no obvious 'pits' that I can see, but there is something that
> >looks like corrosion.
> >
> >While I'm there, I figure that I may as well change the lines and hoses.
> >And while they're out, I may as well clean up a bit more of the engine
> >compartment. And while I'm doing that, if I could fix at least one front
> >fender ... shouldn't I do the inner kick panel at the same time? Wouldn't
> >it then make more sense to also do the floors and rocker panels? If I'm
> >going to do the engine compartment, maybe I should pull the engine to make
> >it easier? This time, I would want to paint the engine while it's out.
> You
> >see what's happening to me? Negotiations are in process to buy another
> >Sprite so that I can restore one 'and' drive one. They would have to take
> >turns. The one that I am considering, is rustier than mine. ( no floors )
> >
> >But back to the brakes ... do I have the wrong part? Does anyone know from
> >my description?
> >
> >Robert Duquette
> >Ottawa ON Canada
> >http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette
> >RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca
> >'65 RHD BRG Sprite
> >
> >
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