Guys,
I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here. These plywood undo tools are
available from all of the usual suspects in sizes appropriate for Spridgets,
Big Healeys and Jaguars. They are supposed to be hit with an UNDO hammer to
loosen or tighten the spinner as required. All I want to do is hook my
torque wrench up to this plywood tool and tighten each spinner to the same
torque value. My question was, and still is : What is the correct torque for
an UNDO ? Does anyone have an answer more accurate than " That feels about
right"
Mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Branch [SMTP:branch@valinet.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 5:10 PM
> To: John Holliday; Kent J. Miller; Spridgets
> Subject: Re: Fw: UNDO torque ;-) Plywood Spec
>
> And as the former owner of a large architectural millwork company, I agree
> with
> John about the marine plywood. However, if you want a really superior
> plywood,
> try (used to be called) "baltic birch". About 15 layers, all solid, in a
> 3/4"
> thick piece. Expensive as the devil though.
>
> Geoff Branch '74 Meejit
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Holliday <fprodget@yahoo.com>
> To: Kent J. Miller <Bushwacker4@prodigy.net>; Spridgets
> <Spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 10:37 AM
> Subject: Re: Fw: UNDO torque ;-) Plywood Spec
>
>
> > As a participant in the "we be tight" membership and
> > as an archtectural specification writer for the last
> > 22 years, I must respectfully state that marine
> > plywood is no stronger, and has no different glue than
> > than the other much more economical structural
> > "exterior" panels. To achieve marine grade it simply
> > is manufactured with no knotholes with the maximum
> > core-gap allowable of 1/8". It is made for use in the
> > construction of boat hulls where voids in the sheet
> > could be detrimental in a submersed situation.
> >
> > Frank's recommendation is more than adequate for this
> > application.
> >
> > John
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