KISS ... everyone is afraid of either bending spokes with
a misplaced hammer blow, or damaging their spinners.
Keep a short (10"-18") piece of 2"x4" in the trunk.
lay the edge/end of the 2x4 on the spinner and hit the 2x4
with
the hammer. You can either do it on end or on the edge.
Paul Tegler ptegler@cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message -----
From "Hanna, Mark" <mhanna at ball.com>
To: "'Geoff Branch'" <branch@valinet.com>; "John Holliday"
<fprodget@yahoo.com>; "Kent J. Miller"
<Bushwacker4@prodigy.net>; "Spridgets"
<Spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: Fw: UNDO torque ;-) Plywood Spec
> Guys,
> I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here. These plywood
undo tools are
> available from all of the usual suspects in sizes
appropriate for Spridgets,
> Big Healeys and Jaguars. They are supposed to be hit with
an UNDO hammer to
> loosen or tighten the spinner as required. All I want to
do is hook my
> torque wrench up to this plywood tool and tighten each
spinner to the same
> torque value. My question was, and still is : What is the
correct torque for
> an UNDO ? Does anyone have an answer more accurate than "
That feels about
> right"
> Mark
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Geoff Branch [SMTP:branch@valinet.com]
> > Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 5:10 PM
> > To: John Holliday; Kent J. Miller; Spridgets
> > Subject: Re: Fw: UNDO torque ;-) Plywood Spec
> >
> > And as the former owner of a large architectural
millwork company, I agree
> > with
> > John about the marine plywood. However, if you want a
really superior
> > plywood,
> > try (used to be called) "baltic birch". About 15
layers, all solid, in a
> > 3/4"
> > thick piece. Expensive as the devil though.
> >
> > Geoff Branch '74 Meejit
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Holliday <fprodget@yahoo.com>
> > To: Kent J. Miller <Bushwacker4@prodigy.net>; Spridgets
> > <Spridgets@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 10:37 AM
> > Subject: Re: Fw: UNDO torque ;-) Plywood Spec
> >
> >
> > > As a participant in the "we be tight" membership and
> > > as an archtectural specification writer for the last
> > > 22 years, I must respectfully state that marine
> > > plywood is no stronger, and has no different glue than
> > > than the other much more economical structural
> > > "exterior" panels. To achieve marine grade it simply
> > > is manufactured with no knotholes with the maximum
> > > core-gap allowable of 1/8". It is made for use in the
> > > construction of boat hulls where voids in the sheet
> > > could be detrimental in a submersed situation.
> > >
> > > Frank's recommendation is more than adequate for this
> > > application.
> > >
> > > John
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