Mike,
I don't think that's it. I think you have a short somewhere. Try removing
the solenoid from the chassis and see if it still gets hot. Did you make
sure to hold both nuts on the starter connection when you tighened it? It's
easy to twist the post if you don't.
Gerard
>Today I received a new (repro) starter switch for the Bugeye. I was
>hoping that this would fix my problem with the overheating starter pull
>wire. I had already rebuilt the starter, so I installed it tonight and
>pulled the starter pull knob and watched the wire again. Well, guess
>what boys and girls, it STILL gets hot! The only component left in the
>starter circuit that is still in question is the negative cable from the
>battery to the starter switch. I bought the cable from Norman Nock. I
>was looking for a helmet head battery cable for the negative side.
>After many calls, Norman's company in Stockton, California said they had
>a repro. I ordered it and waited. When it arrived the darn thing was
>too short. I went to the welding supply store and bought a length of
>matching type cable. I added about 8 inches to the helmet head cable by
>intertwining the separate wires beneath the outer sheath and sweat
>soldering the whole mess together. I then just wrapped electrical tape
>around the area. Not exactly concours, but I thought it would work
>until I could find a longer replacement.
> Does the resistance generated by this lousy connection have
>something to do with the problem? The joint is between the battery and
>the starter switch, the heat generated in the pull wire is on the other
>side of the joint. Does that matter?
> Unless someone tells me that my electrical surgery should not cause
>a problem, tomorrow I will get a generic battery cable of sufficient
>length and try again. There isn't much left to replace.
>Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
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