Skip,
If your seal is leaking, you probably won't need a puller. At most a couple
gentle taps with a plastic or wood mallet will set it free, if a good tug
doesn't. Before doing that, make sure you've jacked the side of the axle
housing higher than the center, or gear oil will be your new best friend. I
have done this replacement several times (on different cars), and I
strongly recommend using a silicone sealer, I use Permatex Ultra Copper,
but most any are probably fine. I know many do them dry, but I've never had
one leak (yet) when done with silicone on both sides of the gasket.
Whichever method you choose, make sure that all surfaces are completely
free of any grease or oil and any remmnants of any old gasket material. I
use a degreaser after I has finished cleaning all surfaces with a wire
wheel. This might be a good time to remove, clean and check the wheel
bearing(s) while you're at it. You will need a puller of some sort to
remove the hub. If you do both sides, make sure the axle stays on the same
side it came out.
Gerard
>Folks,
>
>After a great weekend of cruising (it's FINALLY Spring in Boston!), I pulled
>the rear drums to check my slowly thinning brake linings and found that I
>have diff oil leaking on one side. I never done rear axle seals before, so
>I was wondering if there is anything I need to watch out for. I assume I'll
>need a puller to get the hub off. Seems to be a pretty straight forward job,
>but I wanted to see if anyone had any tips/tricks/gotcha's/etc. Also, I was
>wondering if the o-ring and seal (and axle gasket for that matter) went in
>dry or if I need to use a Permatex-like sealer.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>
>Skip Tannen
>'65 Austin Healey Sprite
>'92 Range Rover LSE
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