Alix,
Some good advice already given but be careful you
don't have any bare wires rubbing up against that
aluminum dryer duct or you will let all of the smoke
out of them.
Bob
--- Kevin Valentine <valntine@ptd.net> wrote:
> Alix,
>
> If you don't have the vent duct you can get dryer
> vent from your local
> "Lowes", "Home Depot" or other similar home center.
> Get the dryer duct
> that is wrapped in aluminum (silver on the outside)
> and must be pulled
> out like and acordian. (The slightly cheaper
> plastic stuff will not
> hold up in the engine bay heat). It's not expensive
> and will keep you
> cool until you get the "proper tubing". Use
> standard dryer hose clamps
> from the same store to keep it in place on the
> heater. At the front of
> the engine bay, push the ducting thru the hole in
> the front cowling near
> the radiator and either "duct tape" it in place or
> push it thru the hole
> and put a clamp on it to keep it from sliding back
> thru the hole.
>
> Kevin V.
>
>
>
> Brent Wolf wrote:
>
> >Alix,
> >
> >You said that your heat control know was stuck.
> After you bypass that
> >heater, do one of two things: If you have the vent
> duct that goes from the
> >heater box to the front of the car, no problem open
> the air damper at the
> >heater box. This will allow nice cool air from in
> front of the car to flow
> >into the area under the heater box. If you don't
> have that vent duct, close
> >that damper. If it is open, it will allow hot
> engine air to flow into the
> >area under the heater box (not nearly as hot as if
> the heater has water
> >flow, but still pretty warm engine bay air.)
>A
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