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Re: Electrical Questions

To: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Questions
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 21:00:19 -0700
Cc: Loud Sprite <loudsprite@zexmedia.com>, spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <BB0BFBA3.1155%loudsprite@zexmedia.com> <a05210601bb0d1099f949@[209.209.93.68]> <3EE73212.7184595C@snet.net>
Hi Jim,

I agree, solder is a better way to go and your tip is a good one. I 
personally don't care for the typical crimp-on connectors that you 
find in the auto parts stores either. In my early days of doing this 
stuff, I was able to get the original machine installed type 
connectors and insulators that were used in the manufacture of 
American automobiles, so I was spoiled. the last couple years, I have 
purchased the brass bullet style connectors and slip connectors that 
are like the original style and solder those. I find those work best 
and are about the easiest to work with. The other type I will use in 
some applications are the Molex style bullet connectors which I crimp 
and solder.

However, there are a couple problems with someone with little 
experience soldering doing this. I have found that copper wire of the 
vintage we are taking about is usually so oxidized that solder will 
not flow to it. Even scraping and the use of flux will not help much. 
Generally speaking, (in my experience anyway), people who do not have 
experience soldering or who have not been taught properly will make 
cold solder joints, making matters worse and more frustrating. That 
is why I didn't go there.

Gerard

At 9:43 AM -0400 6/11/03, Jim Juhas wrote:
>Alix:
>
>I have a possible "we tight" splicing solution and what has been for me a
>preferable alternative to crimp connectors.  Many times I have found crimped
>connections pulled loose or corroded, and the mechanical weak point where the
>crimped connector meets the strands of wire is another failure source from
>vibration and the like.
>
>Years ago, when I used to repair televisions and other electronics, we had
>"splices" available that were small coils of tinned and 
>solder-coated wire, about
>a quarter inch long, into which you would insert the two stripped ends of the
>wire you were repairing.  A touch of the solder gun made the joint, and tape
>protected it.
>
>I've long since been unable to find these splices, but now make my 
>own.  I don't
>use tinned wire to make the coils, but I do use copper for light duty stuff
>(stripped telephone hookup cable works well for this) and more recently,
>particularly for the heavier gauges found in automotive 
>applications, I use .023
>or .030 mig welding wire.  I wind this on the shank of a drill bit 
>selected for
>the appropriate size, then just cut to length with side cutters. 
>This splice is
>then soldered from the outside.  Sometimes I will tin the end of the 
>wires first
>before inserting in to the splice.  The mig wire especially is very 
>stiff, and so
>leaves plenty of space for solder to flow, and provides a firm 
>mechanical support
>for the splice.  I finish off with heat shrink tubing.  (I buy my supplies of
>this from various swap meets).  The splice itself is barely larger than the
>insulated wire itself, and the heat shrink seals it against the 
>perils of nature
>and the oil splash of British cars.
>
>More work, but neater, MUCH more secure, and cheap.
>
>Jim
>
>gerard wrote:
>
>>  Alix.
>>
>>  ... At least get some decent
>>  crimp-on insulated connectors and fix the loose bits first.
>>
>>  >
>>  >On the up side, the new intake duct works like a charm and I used the "we
>>  >tight" solution of a twist tie on the damper. Cooler air has arrived!
>  > >
>  > >Thanks in advance.
>  > >
>  > >--
>  > >Alix


-- 
One meets his destiny often in the road he takes to avoid it.
~French Proverb

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