Frank told you to use a long 5/16" 24 bolt to remove the drive gear, but
he says to remove the clamp and collar first. The collar is the only
thing that holds the drive gear in place if you do it this way your
chance of an R&R of the oil pan is really high as that is where the
drive gear will end up. Put the bolt on before you remove the collar
and about 3 ft of baling wire tied to the bolt is also a good idea, this
way when you drop the drive gear into the engine you can retrieve it
without pulling the pan.
Crash
Hello, Spridgeteers!
I have got my rebuilt 1275 engine installed in my Midget, have verified
I have
60 psi oil pressure during cranking, and am now trying to get it
started.
Following the workshop manual, I have: rotated the engine by hand in the
normal direction to bring it to TDC on the #1 compression stroke, backed
it up
about 1/4 turn, then brought it to the specified 7-deg. BTDC static
setting.
This should be bringing the rotor to the #1 position, but that seems to
be my
problem. The rotor is pointing more or less between #2 and #4 (between
12
o'clock and 1 o'clock, say) and it should be pointing approximately to 9
o'clock, or about 90 degrees out.
I have loosened the clamping collar on the distributor and rotated the
dizzy,
but it won't turn far enough to put the rotor in the correct position.
I'm
wondering if the dizzy drive gear is installed correctly? If that is
the
problem, can it be removed and re-set without disassembling the engine?
This engine was built for me by an experienced engine rebuilder and I
trust
his abilities, but this one has me stumped.
Thanks for any advice.
Steve Byers
'73 Midget
Havelock, NC
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