I'd be careful with the neck on the t-stat housing. That's in the area of
high pressure before the restriction lowering pressure for the
radiator. What we found is that we'd overpower any radiator cap we put on
it if the overflow was plumbed there. We ended up with a cap on the
radiator with overflow and another on the t-stat housing with overflow
plugged. Allows easy complete filling.
- Tony
At 09:01 AM 3/26/2005, Larry Young wrote:
I made my current pulley by turning down a big (approx. 4 or 5 inch
diameter) chunk of steel. It took forever. It would be much simpler to
machine a hub and bolt an off-the-shelf pulley and harmonic balancer to
it. I don't know what off-the-shelf items would work. Suggestions?
Does anyone run an electric pump? Would it be vintage legal?
If you're running hot enough to form steam, you can always increase the
block pressure by changing the radiator cap. However, I've seen problems
which I suspected were due to too much block pressure. I'm hard headed,
so it took a while for Kramer to convince me not to run more than a 7 psi
cap. With separate liners that protrude above the block deck, our engines
have many places to develop leaks at high pressure. A better solution is
to install a higher capacity radiator. This is one of the best mods I've
done. Mine is a commodity Chevy radiator that I got from Speedway Motors
for about $150. For a TR3, you'll have to cut off the filler neck and
weld a patch over the hole. I fill thru an expansion tank mounted on the
firewall, but it would be better to have a neck welded into the thermostat
housing. I have enough to worry about when I'm racing, this eliminated
one of them.
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