I've bought three sets of ARP studs and never got any lube with them.
They mention their special moly lube in their instructions, but I've
never seen it. I have some engine-building moly and I use that.
Yes, one side is a head stud on the rocker arm. The lower torque rating
is for the side that is not a head stud. From memory, I think the
setting for stock studs is 25lbs for that side.
I retorque the head by turning the nut backwards about a quarter turn and
then tightening it back up to spec. Of course, I do this in sequence.
Which material to use is a matter of preference more than science, it
seems. Whatever has worked for you is fine. My car is a vintage racer
with relatively mild compression and I've always used the copper gaskets.
More recently I've been building a race motor with more serious
compression and I'll probably use a spring steel headgasket from Cometic.
Expensive, but indestructible according to the SCCA types.
David Littlefield
On Fri, 8 Jul 2005 01:29:55 -0700 "David Ramsey"
<dwramsey@worldnet.att.net> writes:
> Why wouldn't you use the lube that ARP includes with the set? Do you
> mean
> that both of the rocker studs should be 35 ft/lb, isn't one side
> actually a
> head stud? I have never used the copper head gaskets, so really
> can't
> comment on them. I can say I have always used Fel-Pro gaskets
> without any
> problems. I would also be interested in exactly how you retorque
> the head.
> Crash
>
>
> Probably more important, though, is your head torquing procedure.
>
> First, you need flat surfaces. Both the head and block need to be
> smooth. If you've run through three headgaskets without truing the
> head
> and block, you probably need to have it done.
>
> Then you need to install ARP studs, if you haven't already.
>
> I use a copper headgasket spray, as well, although opinions differ.
>
> Torque initially to 60lbs, in sequence, 10-15lbs at a time,
> lubricating
> the studs/nuts with a little motor oil or moly lube. Ignore the
> ARP
> instructions and just do it. Remember the rocker studs don't need
> this
> torque, 35lbs is plenty.
>
> Adjust the valves.
>
> Run the engine up to temperature at lower rpms, let it cool down
> overnight, then retorque. Readjust the valves.
>
> The next time you run the car, retorque the head again once you've
> let it
> sit overnight. Readjust the valves.
>
> Probably a good idea to retorque the head and readjust the valves
> after
> every race weekend.
>
> David Littlefield
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