I'm a 1500 guy, but I'll take a stab at it since we got the pollution
stuff even worse.
for the air rail, get some 7/16-20 setscrews (no caps). They'll go right
down in and you'll barely notice them.
Since you have a Bugeye, it never came with the evaporative emissions
stuff anyway, so just don't install it. Make sure your gas cap is of the
vented type, and you can add some hose to the carb oferflow ports just
to make sure they're aimed away from anything hot (i.e. exhaust).
If the carbs have the throttle plates with the poppet valves, replace
them with the solid disk type. They're inexpensive, and will not
interfere with the intaike air flow so much.
Don't install the air pump either. What you'll need to do is look at how
the '67 1275 was set up - I think the carb breathers went to a catch can
on the timing cover. (This is where you 1275 guys can jump in!)
Hope this gets you started.
-=Chris
Chris King
http://home.comcast.net/~kvcbk/
<-----Original Message----->
From: Weber, Chris [cweber@advanced-input.com]
Sent: 5/8/2007 10:05:00 AM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: desmogging 1275
Just finishing a 1275 transplant into the bugeye.
The 1275 has an air injection system, crankcase ventilation system, and
an evaporative fuel system.
I would like to get rid of as much of these systems as I can. I would
think all I really need in the crankcase ventilation system.
Anyone care to walk me through what to keep, what not to keep, and where
things get rerouted?
I understand the carbs are probably tuned for the emissions system. Do
I need to change out or make any new initial adjustments to them when I
get rid of all the junk?
Anyone know the thread size and pitch of the plugs need to fill the
holes in the head where the air injection rail was attached?
Thanks!
Chris
'60 Bugeye
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