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Re: Sheet Metal

To: "Wayne Pierzga" <w_pierzga@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Sheet Metal
From: Anita Barrett <anitabrt@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 18:01:11 -0400
At 09:14 AM 5/7/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi:
>
>I am trying to find good sources for some sheet metal parts to my rusting
>Tiger II. I need the following parts:
>
>    1.    Passenger side outside rocker panel

        You will also find that the rectangular inner rocker panel is rusted
out.
The whole area will also be filled with dirt and rust.

      The floor pan has a turned down lip which is spot welded from
under the Tiger to the side frame, etc.  The center of the panel was also
spot welded to the  frames.
      
>Suggested places to look for where the panels are attached would be useful.
>Assuming that the above mentioned places are the only weld areas, what is
>the best method to separate the welds and remove the old floor pan.

        I cut the panels out with a cold chisel, air chisel and a cut-off wheel.
I leave metal around the spot welds and then I use a grinder to grind  the
 spot welds down flush with the frame or the ajoining sheet metal.


>The rocker looks straight forward - spot welds on the top and bottom of the
>piece. But how is the piece attached at the front and rear?

        If you open the door, you will see sheet metal at the leading edge
of the
door opening.  If this is not rusted out, then that was what your rocker was
spot welded to.  If the rocker is gone then the internal brace is likely in bad
shape too.

>The lower fender piece again looks straight forward - except its rear
>attachment.
>
>On the car, there is a large hole in the panel at the rear lower edge of the
>front wheel well. The is the obvious culprit for the rust on the rocker and
>lower fender. It would appear that there was at one time some form of
>sealant between the outer fender and the wheel well which had long since
>deteriorated. 

        This was a form of plumbers putty, I believe complete with asbestous
fibers for re-enforcement.  It gets hard and brittle after a while.

        I used urathane foam ( from a can) to seal up in place of the putty.
You need to paint the urathane foam or else the sunlight or ozone will cause
it to go bad too.  The trick is to use just the right amount of foam.  There is
a solid surface on the exposed foam.  If you cut the foam to clean up a
sloppy job, then the surface is rough due to the cut bubbles.

Its failure allowed water to accumulate in the rocker area and
>the rest is history... I am considering filling this gap (after making the
>repairs) with body filler. Is this a wise move? If not any good
>suggestions????

        Once there were drain holes on the bottom of the rocker panel.
These get plugged with dirt.

>Finally, I am considering sand-blasting the car in the areas which are
>rusted. I have received advice that this may not be a wise move as it
>promotes further rusting. I would appreciate sage advice......

        Good idea to sandblast the area so that your new welds will stick.
If you use Ospho on the metal to keep it from rusting after sandblasting
then it is very difficult to weld.  There is "weldable" primer available
at most automotive paint stores.  This stuff is expensive, but it might
help on the inner surfaces of the rocker panel and sandblasted areas.

        I am still working on my TIGER II in similar areas.  I am using 
Stainless Steel.  It is a bitch to work with and worse to weld.

Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others

>
>Wayne (the car butcher....)


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