Steve,
I will definitely replace the lines as you suggest, and you are absolutely
correct about the double flare being needed. Thanks for the information and
I will pass this on when I finish writing up the installation.
Dan Eiland
daniel@htg.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
To: Daniel S. Eiland <daniel@htg.net>
Cc: Paul J. Burr <tigerpb@ids.net>; Tigers@autox,team.net
<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Brake Booster
>"Daniel S. Eiland" wrote:
>
>> Reused existing brake lines although I had to remove the double flare
>> and fitting and go with a single flare which I did myself as well.
>> Dan Eiland in El Paso
>
>Dan,
>
>A bit confused here on "flares". There are many kinds, but in the car
>hydraulics field there is the "double flare", requiring some non-cheap
>tooling, for high pressure applications. These are similar to the single
flare
>the cheap tools make, but have a double wall on the seal. This is formed
in
>two steps. First, the tube is "bulged" into a shape like this <>===. Then
the
>tip is folded into the center to make a "double wall" flare, like this
>>====.
>This is much stronger than the single flare for high pressure
(brake/clutch)
>use. You really don't have to own such a tool as they can either be
rented, or
>you can buy a pre made tube of many lengths with the ends already formed
and
>new outer nuts.
>
>The English, bless them, have yet another method named "bubble flare". The
>ends are meant to be properly sealed against the already formed section in
the
>hydraulics, and look more like the first stage of a double flare, <>=====.
>These, too, can be bought from Sunbeam Specialties in a variety of lengths
for
>replacement purposes.
>
>On the Midland (or any other American unit) you need a different flare on
each
>end. A bubble flare for the Girling master cylinder, and a "double flare"
for
>the American Midland-Ross booster, both inlet and outlet.
>
>I presume your installation tube-cut the original (leaving the bubble at
the
>distribution block and master cylinder) and the "single flare" at the
booster.
>
>It may be worth your while to measure the finished lengths you have (or
would
>like) and order some new tube form SS. You can then mark the lengths and
have
>a garage with the professional tool but the correct flare on the servo end.
>Nothing worse than loosing pressure in your brakes, or leaking out the
fluid by
>the drop.
>
>Steve
>
>
>--
>Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
>B9472289 < important in your life >
> < and don't let it get away!>
>
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