For all those people interested in installing the Midland-Ross brake
booster, I recently finished installing one and thought I'd pass on my
experience. First I want to thank Paul and all the other Listers who's
valuable input helped make this installation possible without too much fuss.
I ordered the booster from Godman's Hi-Performance and they were very
helpful and I was very pleased with them and the parts they sent. Got this
e-mail from them so I'm including it FYI ----
WE HAVE BOTH 7" AND 8" MIDLAND BOOSTERS
7" DELIVERS 550 LBS PRESSURE
8" 725 LBS
FITTINGS FOR 7 BANJ0 =$46.80
BANJO FOR 8" NOT AVAILABLE.
90 DEGREE FOR 8" AROUND $20.00
8" BOOSTER IS $340.90
7" BOOSTER IS $287.50 .
IF YOU NEED ADDITIONAL INFO , CALL ALLIE AT 1-800-456-2369
Just in case it matters, I have a 1967 MK IA Tiger, B382002652LRXFE. I know,
it was actually built in Dec. 66, but it was originally sold in March 67 so
it was registered as a 67. Now that we have gotten by this tidbit, the
following is a list of the items I ordered:
Qty Part # & Description
Price
1 2694 7" Small Booster
287.50
1 2786 Direct Connect 3/8" Push-on Vac Chk Valve
18.50
2 3292 7/16"-24 fine Banjo Bolt 8.90ea.
17.80
2 3264 -03AN x 1/2"hole
AN male flare to banjo short 15.00ea
30.00
Subtotal 353.80
Shipping 11.85
TOTAL 365.65
Part # 3264 came with the female fitting and special sleeve that allowed me
to remove the bubble flare on my steel brake lines and reuse the brake line
by sliding the female fitting onto the old brake line with the special
sleeve and then flare the line with a single flare. The special sleeve will
then be forced down onto the back of the single flare giving it a tight fit
against the male end and reinforcing the flare at the same time. I must
caution at this time, Steve Laifman wrote me about this and it is worth
passing on;
Steve writes,
On the Midland (or any other American unit) you need a different flare
on each
end. A bubble flare for the Girling master cylinder, and a "double flare"
for
the American Midland-Ross booster, both inlet and outlet.
I presume your installation tube-cut the original (leaving the bubble at the
distribution block and master cylinder) and the "single flare" at the
booster.
It may be worth your while to measure the finished lengths you have (or
would
like) and order some new tube from SS. You can then mark the lengths and
have
a garage with the professional tool put the correct flare on the servo end.
Nothing worse than loosing pressure in your brakes, or leaking out the fluid
by
the drop.
Steve's caution is well taken, he is right in that normally you should
install a double flare in hi pressure systems as is the case with brakes.
But I checked with GODMAN HI-PERFORMANCE's technical department and they
assured me that the way I installed my unit and the single flare are
correct. As long as you install the parts they supply correctly, the
installation of the sleeve supplied with the fittings acts like a double
flare. If you have any concerns I recommend you contact GODMAN and talk with
them.
Mounting the booster to the car turned out easier than I thought it
would be. Paul had sent me some photos of how he installed his Midland
booster and after studying his installation and my car I came accross a
simple (at least I thought it was simple) way of installing the booster to
the original mounting holes on the original bracket that is mounted between
the fenderwell and the firewall on the passenger side under the hood without
drilling any new holes in the original mount or having to do any welding.
While at Home Depot I came across those prefabricated Ties that they use to
hold wood framing together. I found one shaped a little like a "Z" but with
the center part being straight up and down. If I am correct it was called a
"DECK JOIST TI". I had to shape it more like a "Z" for the mount to bolt to
the bottom of the booster and bolt to the original mount on the fender.
Before doing any work with the metal mount I first made a cardboard
model of the mount that I was going to need. From this model I then made
another model out of some scrap 1/8" plywood that I had left over from
another project. I highly recommend making the models. I found that the
alignment of my bolt holes were off on my model which I was able to fix
before doing any work on the metal bracket. I transferred my measurements of
the wooden model to the metal bracket and began with what I needed to do to
mount the metal bracket to the booster first. All my measurements were in
16ths of an inch and there is almost no tolerance for error. I will have to
remove the new mount so I can make a drawing of it with all the measurements
you will need to make the same bracket. I have put over 100 miles on the car
with the booster installed and so far no leaks and everything is working
well. If you are wondering about cost, the "DECK JOIST TI" COST A WHOPPING
$0.86 INCLUDING TAXES. The only other cost that I can think of was for the
bolts and washers to bolt the new mount to the new booster. I reused the
original bolts to mount the unit to the car. BTW I found that if I bolt the
new bracket to the booster first and then bolt the booster and bracket as
one unit to the car I can do all the bolting with a ratchet. Sure was simple
once it was done. Will follow up soon with drawings of the finished product
for all those wanting to do this installation. I also have some photos but I
haven't finished the roll yet so they haven't been developed.
Dan Eiland
daniel@htg.net
B382002652LRXFE
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