Bill Martin wrote:
>
> Bob, Tim, and listers,
>
> Here we go, I will list my particulars first then go on to the carb
> questions. This will be kinda long.
>
> Engine, 5 bolt 289 thirty over, crane copy of the hipo 289 cam (hydrolic)
> Heads, 289 with 351W valves, port matched, cleaned up pockets etc.
> Compression, 10:1
> Headers, 2" exhaust, no crossover, 3 chamber flowmasters.
> Intake, Tiger lowrise.
> 1/2" composite Phenolic plate with pcv takeoff going to rear holes.
> this is all the details I can recall without the build sheet in hand.
>
> Carb, out of the box it had #70 jets all around, and 6.5 powervalves.
> 30cc accelerator pumps. The Idle air bleeds and Highspeed air bleeds
> look like baby jets and are screwed into the venturi area of the carb.
> On most Holleys the air bleeds are machined into the carb body and are
> only tuneable if you drill them out, with the new design they become
> tuneable by changing the size of the bleed itself. Larger means more
> air/less fuel, smaller/morefuel/less air. All four throttle plates are
> stainless and have 1/8 holes on the leading edge. With four corner idle
> there is better fuel dispertion to the entire engine but it's harder to
> get it dialed in. I have dropped the jet size to #66 and changed the
> powervalves to 4.5. I am still to rich at Idle so I ordered the air bleed
> kit so that I can lean out the idle air pre circuit. I tried driving it
> around some and it had pretty good responce off idle, stuffed me into
> the seat pretty good :). The air bleeds are part of the circuit that
> pre emulsify's the fuel before going through the venturi. I think this
> is still to rich. I am only out one turn on the bleed screws, any more
> and it gets real stinky. I only have 11" of vacuum at idle (1000rpm) and
> can't get it to idle any lower. The carb also has a rear throttle plate
> adjustmet screw that is upside down so I had to make a special
> screwdriver to adjust it. The only vacuum port on the carb is where the
> aircleaner stud is so I had to drill out and tap the stud so that I could
> measure vacuum and then button it back up. What a pain, am I having any
> fun yet? So the bottom line is if you want one of these get ready to
> pony up about $700.00 bucks and order the airbleed kit and a jet kit and
> a powervalve kit. I had to run one of those chrome dualfeed fuel lines
> but it is mostly hidden, the fuel runs on the passenger side so the fuel
> line looks better. I have to get back to work now so send the next batch
> of questions to me and I will get to them. Have a great weekend :)
> Bill
Does this thing still run if you lean out all 4 of the idle mixture
screws? If so, take the carb off and see if you're idling into the
transfer slots, either front or rear. If you are, you may have to drill
a small hole in the butterflies to allow enough airflow to pass when the
transfer slots are covered. You also may be able to play with the idle
air bleeds.
Holleys always have had idle circuits in the secondaries, both vacuum
and mechanical. If they didn't, the fuel in the back bowls would go
sour. You can see the idle fuel outlet directly below the transfer
slots on non-4 corner Holleys. Since yours is a 4 corner idle carb,
they'd be offset a bit, just like the primaries.
Be careful using the main air bleeds to lean out your carb. Air bleed
size affects the timing that the booster venturis begin to come in. If
you go too large on air bleeds, the boosters won't get signal at lower
rpms. If it's too rich up top, then you can open the air bleeds...
Sounds like a fun toy! Have fun!
Gerard
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