Richard, and Tigers.
I am sending this message for Richard's questions, but have also included the
'list' as this question keeps coming up. If you don't want to hear about
radiators, sources, filters, tips, etc. hit 'delete' now.
1) Gano Filters
I have tried two and thoroughly examined a third water filter for keeping scale
from clogging our radiators. This is a problem with Tigers and old Iron Blocks,
but can be solved.
First try was the Gano lexan plastic in-line filter for the top hose. It has a
removable double conical screen set inside the assemble, which fits the inside
of your top hose. The first screen has a hole in the center, so the periphery
catches the bigger flakes, and the second screen has no hole and catches the
rest. Fine brass screens soldered to a brass ring that bolts to the housing.
This is a good filter, but there is a major design problem, and a minor
problem. The minor problem is that the transparent housing, supposedly allowing
a view of the filter to know when to service it, can not bee seen through the
green antifreeze. One could partially drain the coolant and see the filter,
allowing a service reminder. The MAJOR problem is that there are no "lips" on
the housing to keep the hose from slipping off. Only friction is keeping it
together. A safety wire is supplied to keep the two clamps together, put I was
a little wary of the pressure popping the unit out. I built a simple stay
between the two clamps on the opposite side of the clamp positions using a piece
of stainless clamp band that was under the clamps, and folded over the clamps at
the ends. Still, I would miss the security of the "lip". Although I hadn't any
problem with the lexan housing, it could be source of future problems if it
breaks from age, pressure, or abuse.
The second filter was still the Gano filter, with all the good features, but the
housing was solid machined brass, with "lips". Works just fine, and I check it
every 3-5 months. This would depend on your experience with how fast your car
releases scale. Mine was power back flushed, and had few miles, but many years
on the block. Can't see through it, so I just butted the hose together and you
can't tell it's there, except for the two clamps.
I highly recommend thus filter, and it is available at the CAT warehouse for
members, an at classic Mustang Parts stores.
If you are going to get a radiator built locally (again) you just might consider
having a mounting ring, with the threaded Gano mounting screw holes, installed
inside or flush with the inlet tube. The filter is then screwed to the ring,
and
is accessed by removing the one hose connection. Much better than dual hose
clamps, and uncertain retention. NOT sure diameters are compatible for this.
2) Radiators, Specs and sources.
My source, and specs:
I bought my re-core in Simi Valley. The owner will take your old radiator
by UPS and return the new one to you, if you don't live nearby. I can
vouch for his workmanship. He was recommended by the local Lotus expert
mechanic, and he sold it for $300, + $21.75 California sales tax. This was
over a year ago, s some change may have occurred , and out-of-state doesn't
pay tax, but does pay shipping.
When I asked him about the specs for the core, for those living elsewhere,
he gave it to me, and I published it, but he also offered to do the work by
UPS.
Ask for Ken, I told him I was going to give out this information. His
caution is that he does not know the condition of your tanks. Before he
can give you a firm quote, he must assure that the parts he needs are
usable. Give him a call.
Commercial Radiator Service
864 Los Angeles Avenue
Simi Valley, CA 93065
(805-527-3332)
(FAX 805-520-1148)
B.A.R. #AG029137 (California Bureau of Automotive Repair shop number)
He calls it a Special High Efficiency Core and they are 5/16 tubes on 3/8
centers from Modine's custom department. 4 row, 14 fin/inch, and fit the
stock tanks in width.
A source for a hi performance 3 row by
Paul Reisentz
Tiger Radiators for Sale;
Brand new Brass/Copper radiators, new brackets, new core, new header plates,
new thicker- walled tanks, and all new connections. These radiators look just
like the originals, except for the modern updated core design. Core is three
row and works best when used with a good fan such as the Ford C9DZ-8600-A.
All materials and workmanship guaranteed for one year. Satisfaction guaranteed
or your money back, with return of radiator, of course. All radiators sold
only after phone conversation with yours truly to determine whether or not my
product/products will solve your problem. In other words, these radiators are
not intended to cool 400 HP race cars or 260's bored out to 289's.
Over 130 of these radiators sold over the past ten years with lots of
satisfied customers. One-off radiators made for additional cost depending on
modifications.
Price: $400 plus shipping; FOB San Jose, CA
Paul Reisentz
Reisentz Restorations
408-369-0470
Cullen Bennett's Aluminum Core Source,
>Where did you get it? What is their phone number and location?
The radiator is custom built by "Ron Davis Racing Products" on the West side
of Phoenix. The address is:
Ron Davis Racing Products
7334 W. 108th Ave.
Glendale, AZ
85307
(602)-877-5000
Doug Jennings (per Gary Schotland)
I guess it depends on where you get your aluminum radiator
because I've heard the ones Doug Jennings of Tiger Auto is selling
are a very good (not perfect) fit with the original shroud. That's the
one I'm planning to get for my car.
Doug, please reply with your e-mail and radiator specs and costs.
3) Cooling Fans
Did I understand yours is a 'puller' fan taking air away from the radiator to
the
grille? You might consider the two alternatives of reversing the fan blades (a
common manufacturer's dual use provision) and reversing the wire polarity to
reverse the rotation direction of the motor.
On fans, although I know you ordered one, I thought I'd make this list complete
for others.
My source: (courtesy Bob Palmer)
The fan source is Scott Manufacturing, 25520 AVE. Stanford, STE. 304,
Valencia, CA 91355. (805) 295-9340
or (800) 544-5596. Gary Wilson is our Tiger expert . I bought, under
advice from Bob Palmer, their FR13A-3.75 Pusher fan with the
"Terminator" motor. I also bought a quick connect, a relay base, the
threaded foot kit, the terminator kit insulated 20 amp fuse with body-mount
holder, a 25 amp toggle switch and a 40 amp
relay. Didn't use the switch, as I found a SPST Lucas switch I put in
the unused "choke" hole.
Need some wood working behind this to clear the Lucas switch. No
biggie. The total cost was $120 plus $8
S&H and any appropriate taxes. Good unit, 12 amps, with a 3 3/4 inch
over-all fan depth with this motor. No
big pancake. The 13 inch fan is 13 3/4 by 14 inches, and is as big as
your going to get in without major surgery.
1600 CFM.
BTW: I do not recommend an 'automatic sensor' for two reasons.
A) You don't want this thing wired to run when the ignition is off, for safety,
and that's usually when it gets soak-back.
B) You know when your engine is hot, and whether your road speed is slow enough
for an electric fan.
C) The 'sensor' is forced between tubes to sense the temperature. With routine
vibration it can wear it's way through the tube causing a failure.
Air Flow:
There are still plenty of other things that can help. A LAT Hood is one way to
get air out. Horn extenders and hole blockers can prevent air by-passing the
radiator. I have a lower inlet to radiator bottom air guide designed and
currently in fabrication. It forces the air coming in the lower front valance
holes to go through the radiator, instead of under it. Bob Palmer has a similar
solution. I am working on a hidden air dam to fit on this guide and be of
flexible material to prevent damage on bumps and things. It will force the air
flowing under the radiator through a smaller opening between the ground and the
body. This will accelerate the air, and cause a lower pressure area to exist
behind the radiator. That 'sucks' more air through the radiator. The faster
you
go, the more is 'sucks'. I hesitate to use the words 'partial vacuum' as it is
more properly a local pressure drop. Bob has used a Ford sedan part that
fastens
to his valance. I have used the same approach about 20 years ago on my
Ferrari/Lotus looking Fiero rear engine custom chassis/body hand built special.
Works fine.
I have also installed a pair of half size overflow/return water kits between the
cylindrical tank and the radiator, coupled to another under the fender. I do
not
have a cooling problem, with the 6 blade fan and high-po radiator, but the rest
of
this is just oversights in the car design and protection from those 105 deg.
days
in stuck traffic (yesterday).
Keep this, as if you don't have a heating problem, you may later wish to help
someone who does.
Hope this helps. Good luck, Richard.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
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