Steve,
Depends on how much "stuff" you are hanging off that switch. Every added
accessory wire that wants to be turned off with the ignition adds
current. The switch should be able to just handle the stock stuff,
transistor radio, and maybe fog lights through a secondary relay. Your
new hot coil, for example, goes through that switch. It does not get
it's 50,000 volts without 5 times more current (and more heat) through
the switch. I would consider that EVERYTHING not original be switched
with these small power relays.
There is an Electronics Shop on Desoto and about Topanga that sells
sockets and relays in many configurations. For more than one item the
sockets can be mounted on the fender in a row, and the wires routed to
the various devices. The MAIN power is all separately, and
appropriately, fused for each device with a removable plug-in plastic
fuse block. These can have their inputs tied together and shunted to the
fuse block. They have the block mount and inline fuse holder/fuses too.
One appropriate one per relay/device. The main power is from the Lucas
Fuse block (another weak sister), and all the energizing wires can be
joined with one going to the switched terminal of the ignition switch
with that larger wire to handle ALL the devices power needs.
The coil resistor is connected to the "run" position of the switch ,
giving and the coil 9 volts during run, and the "start" (crank) position
of the switch allows a full 12 volts from the starter solenoid, in the
original design. This allowed that big resistor to be bypassed for a
full 12 volts during cranking by getting power from the starter
solenoid/battery directly, and drop the resistor back in for 9 volts
during run through the switch. With the non-resistor model and
Pertronix II you have, the resistor is not used, and both wires are
connected to the coil. This puts a lot of current through the switch.
Here is an excellent example of the need for a switching relay addition.
Haven't done this part yet, myself. Would relay on Theo, who would know.
Just my thoughts. I agree with everything Theo said, he is never wrong
in the electrical field, but he does not know about what stuff you may
have hanging from that switch and causing excessive current to pass
through the contacts.
You might also feel whether there are any hot wires. This can be done
somewhat away from the switch body so it does not influence the
temperature. The wires should NEVER be hot, or they are the wrong size,
or something is wrong with the device on the other end.
Steve
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Steve Laifman
Editor
<http://www.TigersUnited.com >
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