As usual Theo and Steve have some excellent advise. I rely on Theo as
my electrical Guru.
I never liked the wiring system in the Tiger, especially the Only Two
Fuses for the entire car, where much of the critical circuitry was not
even protected.
There is also the problem of PO's and what they did, that is hiding
beneith the electrical tape.
So, I pulled the entire wiring hardness system, really 4 sets of bundled
wire, and after stripping and correcting the PO's mistakes, fused wires,
wires just mechanically wrapped together, I made a new wiring system
with 10 ATO fuses, relays for hi and lo beams, horns, backup lights, and
real grounds in multible places, that do not rely on sheet metal screws
for grounding through rusty sheet metal. Mmmmm, why are those lights so
dim.
Is it hard, No, but you have to take it out and just do it, and then
stop worring. Cost is less than $50, using existing wiring harness.
An electircal fire, especially under your dash, can ruin your whole day.
Larry
BTW - Do you have a fire extinisher in the car that the driver can reach?
Steve Laifman wrote:
> Steve,
>
> Depends on how much "stuff" you are hanging off that switch. Every added
> accessory wire that wants to be turned off with the ignition adds
> current. The switch should be able to just handle the stock stuff,
> transistor radio, and maybe fog lights through a secondary relay. Your
> new hot coil, for example, goes through that switch. It does not get
> it's 50,000 volts without 5 times more current (and more heat) through
> the switch. I would consider that EVERYTHING not original be switched
> with these small power relays.
>
> There is an Electronics Shop on Desoto and about Topanga that sells
> sockets and relays in many configurations. For more than one item the
> sockets can be mounted on the fender in a row, and the wires routed to
> the various devices. The MAIN power is all separately, and
> appropriately, fused for each device with a removable plug-in plastic
> fuse block. These can have their inputs tied together and shunted to the
> fuse block. They have the block mount and inline fuse holder/fuses too.
> One appropriate one per relay/device. The main power is from the Lucas
> Fuse block (another weak sister), and all the energizing wires can be
> joined with one going to the switched terminal of the ignition switch
> with that larger wire to handle ALL the devices power needs.
>
> The coil resistor is connected to the "run" position of the switch ,
> giving and the coil 9 volts during run, and the "start" (crank) position
> of the switch allows a full 12 volts from the starter solenoid, in the
> original design. This allowed that big resistor to be bypassed for a
> full 12 volts during cranking by getting power from the starter
> solenoid/battery directly, and drop the resistor back in for 9 volts
> during run through the switch. With the non-resistor model and
> Pertronix II you have, the resistor is not used, and both wires are
> connected to the coil. This puts a lot of current through the switch.
> Here is an excellent example of the need for a switching relay addition.
> Haven't done this part yet, myself. Would relay on Theo, who would know.
>
> Just my thoughts. I agree with everything Theo said, he is never wrong
> in the electrical field, but he does not know about what stuff you may
> have hanging from that switch and causing excessive current to pass
> through the contacts.
>
> You might also feel whether there are any hot wires. This can be done
> somewhat away from the switch body so it does not influence the
> temperature. The wires should NEVER be hot, or they are the wrong size,
> or something is wrong with the device on the other end.
>
> Steve
> --
> Steve Laifman
> Editor
> <http://www.TigersUnited.com >
>
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