Larry has delivered the goods. He has told you how you wire a "1 wire"
alternator to give you a warning light. Easy as cake, simple as pie.
Now, there are still a bunch of folk out there who won't believe it
works, just because someone told them it did. They seem to want the
'scientific explanation' to "believe". Well, I believe Larry. BUT, for
those that want the nitty gritty, without the relativity theory, or
black holes, here it is.
There is no ground!
Yup. That's the deep dark secret. The other side of that idiot light
goes to the battery when the key is in the "run" position, like most
other switched stuff. When the alternator is not putting out as much
voltage as the battery, the current flows through the light to the
alternator's 1 wire, and thence to a lower potential (voltage), What do
you get? Light!.
OK, the alternator starts to turn and generate voltage. That voltage
goes through the light to the battery. The light dims until the
alternator voltage matches the battery voltage. Then the light has no
current flow from a voltage difference and goes out.
Now the cop-out. I'll leave it to Theo Smit to explain why it doesn't go
back on again when the alternator output voltage exceeds the battery
voltage for charging. Bet it has something to do with a diode, though. :-)
Steve
Larry Paulick wrote:
> Gary, you guys are the EE, Sparky experts, they just give us CE's a
> hammer, and tell us to go at it.
>
> The hook up is charging wire from alternator to solenoid/battery
> connection, and the one wire to red warning light and then to #2 on
> ignition switch.
>
> It works. I also use a volt meter.
>
> I still can't figure out how the wiring diagram on the flash to pass
> circuitry that Theo did for me. Something is not right there but it
> works.
>
> Larry
>
> PS - I felt good and that my EE days were over when the Heath Kit
> stereo worked.
--
Steve Laifman
Editor
http://www.TigersUnited.com
|