Bruce,
I have heard similar. I am on the verge of doing a cam change in a 318
Mopar and a lengthy internet search supports what you have relayed. If I
might add (not having read your link - for time sake) most cam manufacturers
also recommend immediately running the engine in the 1,500-2,000 RPM range
for 10-20 minutes, then changing the oil. I have also heard it recommended
to use cut valve covers to observe that all the (non-roller) lifters are
spinning in their bores.
Personally I would think it helpful to keep the idle as high as one could
tolerate for the first 200-500 miles. One other thing I am going to do
because the cam change is mild and the use is in the lower RPM's - is
initially break in the cam with the stock (used springs). I suppose that
these weaker springs would put less initial stress while the cam and lifters
wear to one another. While some of this may be unnecessary I'd rather be
safe than sorry.
Regards, Tom Witt
P.S. Regardless of my current wisdom there was a time when I swapped a well
used cam and lifters into a 260. The lifters were never indexed and were put
in any bore. 25,000 miles later there was never any indication in the
general engine performance that the lobes had suffered wear. It was the
radiator that kept repeatedly blowing open on my Falcon and the resulting
bad head gaskets that eventually put an end to the motor. I guess this is
one for the Mythbusters! TW
> My mechanic made me aware of a problem they have been seeing over the past
> few years. They have had a few ruined camshafts popping up, he told me
> about this article in the July? issue of Hot Rod. Basically they have
> removed most of the additives from the oil. My mechanic has been using
> Castrol for 30 years and had to stop. He switched me to Rotella T for
> diesel.
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