You can check the sending unit's ground with an ohm meter. Put one lead
on the intake manifold and the other on the sending unit itself, it
should read under 1 ohm.
The starter solenoid requires more current (probably a couple of amps)
and so it's proportionally more important to get a good ground there.
You should still be able to measure with an ohm meter but you'll have to
be more careful about the 'zero' setting on the ohm meter.
Short the two ohm meter leads together and (on a digital meter) take
note of the reading, then move the leads to the solenoid base and to a
bare part of the chassis or another good ground connection, and note the
reading. It should be no more than 0.1 ohm higher than the shorted
reading.
On an analog meter you can adjust the zero setting, so you first short
the leads and set the meter to read zero, then test the connection you
want to measure.
The most critical chassis connections are the one from the ground strap
to the battery, and the one from the transmission tunnel to the engine
block or transmission case. Those have to be low enough resistance that
you can't even measure them with a standard ohm meter, and it's
imperative that you clean down to bare metal on the chassis. If you're
connecting into a threaded nut plate on the chassis then it's probably
okay to just chase the threads with a tap and make sure it's bright and
clean before screwing a bolt into it, but it would be better to also
take the paint off the sheetmetal and give some insurance. You can top
coat it with touch up paint or anti-seize compound for corrosion
protection.
Theo
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces+theo.smit=dynastream.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces+theo.smit=dynastream.com@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of CoolVT@aol.com
Sent: June 16, 2008 9:44 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] grounding theory
Both the temperature sending unit and the starter solenoid are shown as
being grounded. The question is how well do they have to be
grounded:-) Will using teflon tape on the threads of the sending unit
allow the thread to cut through and still ground the unit?
I wasn't especially careful in scratching away paint at the base of the
solenoid to ensure good contact nor was I careful in being sure that
the washer on the bolt was making good contact with bare metal to
attach the solenoid.
How well does this thing have to be grounded?
I guess I am used to a picky electrical inspector that insisted that
the paint be scraped down to the bare metal and the metal threaded to
ensure a good ground.
Mark
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