I'm in the process of rewiring my Tiger with a Painless wiring 7
circuit fuse panel and some additional relays for the horns and
headlights. The 7 fuse panel has four of them relay-switched so that you
can relieve the ignition switch of the heavy loads as well. I'll try and
get some documentation out in the coming months.
The reason that the horn button works the way it does is that in this
way you only need one slip ring on the steering column to transfer the
current (assuming the steering shaft to be grounded through the
bearings). It's common to the vast majority of cars out there... but
most cars nowadays (and even quite a few back in the 60's and 70's) have
relays to drive the actual horn circuit.
A Bosch style relay can be wired to drive the horns as follows:
The #85/86 circuit is the low-current coil. Connecting 12 volts across
these terminals connects the high-current switch (terminals 30 and
87/87A) together.
So connect #85 to 12 volts (with a 2 amp fuse just in case) and #86 to
the horn ring wiper (purple lead on the column, off the top of my head -
I could be wrong there).
Connect #30 to 12 volts (brown wires on the existing fuse panel) with a
20 amp fuse. Connect #87 and/or 87A to one terminal of each horn.
Connect the other terminal on each horn to the chassis using a secure
connection. It's probably best to use 14 gauge wiring for the high
current circuit.
Honk away to your heart's content.
Theo
Cliff Alexander wrote:
> Hello List-- Has anyone modified the wiring for the horns? My horns hardly
> work at all, very low and uneven volume. It seems to me that they are wired
> backwards. The positive (+) is at the horns constantly and when the horn
> button is pressed that completes the circuit to ground (-). I'm trying to
> figure out how to put a relay in the circuit so the horn button only has a
> low amperage load and the high amp load is from the relay to the horns. Any
> ideas welcome. Thanks Cliff
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