The SS lines that SS sells work very well. You will notice a much firmer
peddle when you change over.
Jerry Christopherson
9473187
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Scattt
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 8:20 PM
To: Wayne-MSN; 'Stu Brennan'; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brakes 3
I agree with Wayne. I have had several expierences with the rubber lines
collapsing and holding the brakes on or causing them to drag. If the rubber
lines have never been replaced I would highly advise you replace all three.
You could take the line off on the bad wheel and trying to blow through it
for a quick test!
Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne-MSN" <w_pierzga@msn.com>
To: "'Stu Brennan'" <stubrennan@comcast.net>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brakes 3
> Stu:
>
> You might want to check the flexible brake line for the affected wheel.
> When
> the line gets old and cranky it can act as a one-way valve. Press the
> brake
> you force fluid into the hose, which expands under the pressure and causes
> the caliper to close. But, when you release the brake the hose collapses
> preventing the caliper from releasing.
>
> Its an odd problem that is difficult to find.
>
> Good luck
> Wayne
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stu Brennan [mailto:stubrennan@comcast.net]
> Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 8:46 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Brakes 3
>
> OK, here's how the weekend went with my brakes. Saturday morning I went
> for another drive, checking the temperatures of the disks att he same
> points little brake use. At about a mile and a half, I'm not sure how
> hot one disk was, it was "off scale high" on my IR thermometer. The
> other was right around 200F.
>
>
>
> At home, I pulled the wheels again. The pads could easily be pushed
> back by hand. OK, screwdriver, they were still a bit toasty. But when
> released, they would pop right back against the disks, the outer boots
> on the pistons pushing them back into position.
>
>
>
> I reinstalled my old thinner pads, and they were fine, the pads would
> push back and stay back. Repeating the test drive, things were fine,
> the disks got a little warm, but stabilized well below boiling. I drove
> several miles, again no overheating.
>
>
>
> FYI, the new pads are about 0.617" thick, including the backing plates.
> The old ones appear to have just over half the friction material
> thickness.
>
>
>
> Sunday, driving into Brookline, just under an hour, again no problems.
> No smoke and flames, or even bad smells when I got there.
>
>
>
> So the conclusion is that my outer rubber seal on the caliper pistons do
> not lay flat enough to allow new pads to be pushed back by the slight
> disk wobble, and stay back far enough to not seriously rub the disks.
>
>
>
> These boots came from VB, but before you say "See, you should have
> known better!", I compared them to an unused set I got from Rick a
> bunch of years back, but got lost in my spares until they were too old
> to use. They were shaped about the same, Rick's not particularly flat,
> either.
>
>
>
> Has anyone else had a problem with this, overheating disks after a brake
> rebuild? Where did you get YOUR rubber bits for the calipers?
>
>
>
> Stu
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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