The distributor is gear driven. If it it is jumping so bad you have to move
wires,
it must be jumping teeth. It is crucial that the distributor gear matches your
cam.. cast iron vs. steel I think it is. I would pull the distributor and
check the
gear. If its worn like I would suspect, you might have damaged the cam as well.
Or it might be possible your dist is not seated all the way down somehow??
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Pointers <gpointer@telusplanet.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 14:08:53 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Timing deviates - advice needed
I put out a list MayDay a year ago when suddenly, upon starting, the car ran
absolutely brutal. Undriveable. Adjusted the timing, replaced the fuel pump
& fuel filter, drained the fuel. Nada. Barely running. (Tony, and others,
thanks for the input). Then I finally get a guy I know (not a mechanic, but
good problem solver and mechanically knowledgeable) to look at it. Car
starts and runs not too bad (no changes made), he moves the distributor, and
voila, runs perfectly. Start it a few times, drive it around, set the dwell,
all's well.
Some time later I get a bad result again, and my mechanic buddy moves the
dist to full lock, and it's running 90%. We move the dist wires one position
so we can move the dist, then set the timing correctly.
He checks everything: float bowls, condenser changed, dwell set (got some
strange readings tho). Runs awesome.
Some time later I get a bad result. I check the timing and I'm at zero
degrees. I move the wires one position in the opposite direction, adjust to
16 degrees and voila!
Some time later...well, you get the picture.
Something seems to throw my timing out substantially. If I make adjustment,
my timing goes out the other direction.
This does not occur while I'm driving. Only upon a subsequent start-up.
Someone highly regarded thought timing chain, but I checked (observing
degrees of movement when manually reversing crank direction) and it would
appear to be well within spec.
New coil, points, wires 1000 miles ago.
I'm running a Mallory dual point. I want to keep it (not the LAT Ford dual
point, but historically similar).
It doesn't appear to be worn, the points are clean, rotor is good. Swapped
out condenser.
Cannot seem to source new points (though they are shiny, not burnt).
Tried to start it in the fall to go park it for the winter, and it would not
even fire; suspect the timing might be way out this time. I verified there
is spark and fuel. Covered it up for the winter.
Mallory won't help. Completely unsupported and no parts avail.
Couldn't find a shop that'll just take in the distributor and bench test it.
Any ideas? Would prefer a remedy to existing.
Should I take the leap to electronic? If so, what would you recommend?
Spring is coming, and I've got to have a more trouble free summer this year.
All suggestions appreciated.
I will queue up your thoughts and likely be able to get after it when Spring
shows up in 3 weeks.
Appreciated! Please solve the riddle!
Gary
St. Albert, Alberta, Canada
_______________________________________________
tigers@autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
tigers@autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tigers-archive@autox.team.net
|