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Re: [Tigers] Timing deviates - advice needed

To: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Timing deviates - advice needed
From: Pointers <gpointer@telusplanet.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 10:37:54 -0600
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Thanks Gary. Mechanic buddy removed the dist. It's gear was undamaged.
Visually inspected the cam gear (360 degrees) thru the distrib mount and it
appeared fine.
Appears to be seated well (though when I first encountered the issue I found
the lock down nut was loose, and thought that was my problem).




On 2012-03-25, at 8:37 AM, Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net> wrote:

> The distributor is gear driven.  If it it is jumping so bad you have to move
wires,
> it must be jumping teeth.  It is crucial that the distributor gear matches
your
> cam..  cast iron vs. steel I think it is.  I would pull the distributor and
check the
> gear.  If its worn like I would suspect, you might have damaged the cam as
well.
> Or it might be possible your dist is not seated all the way down somehow??
> Gary
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Pointers <gpointer@telusplanet.net>
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 14:08:53 -0000 (UTC)
> Subject: [Tigers] Timing deviates - advice needed
>
> I put out a list MayDay a year ago when suddenly, upon starting, the car
ran
> absolutely brutal. Undriveable. Adjusted the timing, replaced the fuel pump
> & fuel filter, drained the fuel. Nada. Barely running. (Tony, and others,
> thanks for the input). Then I finally get a guy I know (not a mechanic, but
> good problem solver and mechanically knowledgeable) to look at it. Car
> starts and runs not too bad (no changes made), he moves the distributor,
and
> voila, runs perfectly. Start it a few times, drive it around, set the
dwell,
> all's well.
>
> Some time later I get a bad result again, and my mechanic buddy moves the
> dist to full lock, and it's running 90%. We move the dist wires one
position
> so we can move the dist, then set the timing correctly.
> He checks everything: float bowls, condenser changed, dwell set (got some
> strange readings tho).  Runs awesome.
>
> Some time later I get a bad result. I check the timing and I'm at zero
> degrees. I move the wires one position in the opposite direction, adjust to
> 16 degrees and voila!
>
> Some time later...well, you get the picture.
> Something seems to throw my timing out substantially. If I make adjustment,
> my timing goes out the other direction.
> This does not occur while I'm driving. Only upon a subsequent start-up.
> Someone highly regarded thought timing chain, but I checked (observing
> degrees of movement when manually reversing crank direction) and it would
> appear to be well within spec.
> New coil, points, wires 1000 miles ago.
> I'm running a Mallory dual point. I want to keep it (not the LAT Ford dual
> point, but historically similar).
> It doesn't appear to be worn, the points are clean, rotor is good. Swapped
> out condenser.
> Cannot seem to source new points (though they are shiny, not burnt).
> Tried to start it in the fall to go park it for the winter, and it would
not
> even fire; suspect the timing might be way out this time. I verified there
> is spark and fuel. Covered it up for the winter.
>
> Mallory won't help. Completely unsupported and no parts avail.
> Couldn't find a shop that'll just take in the distributor and bench test
it.
> Any ideas? Would prefer a remedy to existing.
> Should I take the leap to electronic? If so, what would you recommend?
> Spring is coming, and I've got to have a more trouble free summer this
year.
> All suggestions appreciated.
> I will queue up your thoughts and likely be able to get after it when
Spring
> shows up in 3 weeks.
>
> Appreciated! Please solve the riddle!
>
> Gary
> St. Albert, Alberta, Canada
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