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Re: [Tigers] Tiger elec components with non-factory wiring?

To: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger elec components with non-factory wiring?
From: "Smit, Theo via Tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 03:49:11 +0000
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Thread-topic: [Tigers] Tiger elec components with non-factory wiring?
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Cullen,
I used a Painless 7 fuse auxiliary block (their PN 70107), and added a
bank of relays, each with 30A circuit breakers. The fuse block is split
into an accessory9 and a ignition switched9 block; I used one relay to
switch on the ignition-switched block so that the ignition key doesn9t see
any high loads from the heater, ignition, wipers, fuel pump, etc. The horn
got its own relay; the high and low beams each got a relay; and the
electric fan and fuel pump took the other spots, I think. The only bad
thing I encountered was in South Dakota where the starter solenoid wire
melted because the solenoid on my mini-starter was drawing 20 amps. That
killed my autocross there... Live and learn, and like Sandy says, make
sure your wire is bigger than your fuses!

Integrating with the existing harness depends mostly on how reversible9
you want it to be, and what the condition of your existing harness is. I
spliced into the harness at the original spade connectors where those were
supposed to plug into the original fuse box. I mounted my new fuse box
just ahead of the ignition switch, under the dash. If your current wiring
is 50 years old then you should probably get one of Rick9s or the British
Wiring harnesses and THEN add your own fuse panel.

Definitely look at the wire gauge and what the accessory is that you are
driving with it, and substitute fuses accordingly. Just because that fuse
panel comes with 20A fuses in all the slots does not mean that is correct
for your application - pretty much none of the accessories should draw
over 15 amps EVER including at startup.

Happy wiring,
Theo

On 2015-01-13, 8:10 PM, "Sandy Ganz via Tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
wrote:

>It would not be a problem, the electrical is pretty similar except for
>the Generator. You might keep some of the wiring and just redo sketchy
>parts. I would definitely use a fuse block with more then 2 fuses :). The
>areas of trickiness I'm guessing would be turn signal and Generator, the
>rest is pretty simple in looking at the diagrams. That all being said you
>might be better off starting with a replica harness and just add a fuse
>block, I think all the individual terminations for things ends up at the
>2 fuses and each of those wires could be set to their own fuse. I have
>some melted wires under the dash that proves a 20 (or 30??) amp fuse will
>not blow if a small wire gets a short!
>
>One other issue is if you intend on using all the odd connectors to
>things like motors, wipers, etc, if not and you have no issue chopping
>them and using safe and modern connectors a new harness is OK, but if you
>have to start splicing bullet connectors everywhere, easier to start with
>a stock harness and fix the fuse box IMO ;)
>
>Sandy
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
> From: Cullen McCann via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
>To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 3:52 PM
>Subject: [Tigers] Tiger elec components with non-factory wiring?
>
>
>Guys, I am interested in using an aftermarket wiring approach for my Mk1a
>Tiger, like Painless wiring. I haven't dove into the fundamental design
>basics of lucas and jaeger electronics..etc, but if reputation was all I
>had to go from, I am expecting it to be complicated.
>
>Can a system with conventional circuit protection, fuses etc like a
>painless harness be adapted to all the electrical and instrumentation? Is
>there any support out there for that exercise? I want all the original
>lenses, bezels, instruments etc but with the technology of aftermarket
>street rod style wiring.
>
>As always, thank you!
>Cullen
>Alpine 260
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