Walter
Somtimes you'll have an alignment problem with the carb piston and the bore it
slides up and down through. It sorta binds up. This problem was most prevelant
with S.U.'s or earlier LBCs. With the carb reassembeled and the screws holding
the top on pretty snug but not totally tight, hold the card in one hand and in
the other a medium sized screwdriver. Whack (gently) the carb top on a couple
sides with the screwdriver handle. Seems to center it and the piston frees up.
Like some people I know, one must get their attention before they cooperate.>
FWIW
Bill
'70 6
'88 635
===== Original Message From Walter Fogle <lbc4me@hotmail.com> =====
>Hello carb gurus:
>
>Having rebuilt the carbs on my '69 TR6 I've noticed that the air piston in
>one carb (front) operates more freely than in the other one. This is with
>simply a "raise the piston by hand" test and letting it return under it's
>own resistance. Carbs still off the car, no damper oil installed yet. The
>front piston more or less just flops back into position. The rear piston
>returns with a little resistance. (Not much but a definite difference)
>Which is more desirable and is the process adjustable. (New springs?) I
>practiced EXTREME cleanliness on reassembly so I'm not worried about dirt in
>the newly finished carbs.
>
>
>My project grew from carb rebuilding to blasing the manifolds, removing and
>refurbishing the radiator, and replacement of assorted fittings and hoses,
>etc. and so on. I want to get everything back together this week but am a
>little concerned over the difference in piston resistance. Can anyone help?
> Rex, Dick, are you out there?
>
>Thanks and best regards,
>Walt Fogle
>'69 TR6, CC30689L
>Woodinville, WA
>_________________________________________________________________
|