I did the same thing as Todd.
I had the frame sand blasted and then painted with POR-15 semigloss followed by
POR-15 Chassis Coat
Black. I also filled in the pits with plastic between the POR-15 and Chassis
coat black. I used red
scotch brite pads between coats and it all went well.
I've also used Eastwood's rust encapsulator and in my opinion it tries too
fast. You don't have time
to brush it out.
I've used Magnet's products, and they seem OK. The semigloss has a better
finish to it than the
POR-15, but it's not as good as POR-15's Chassis Coat Black. It also seems
sensitive to what the
base is. They recommend priming first with their silver rust encapsulator. The
gloss can be very
uneven with Magnet's semi gloss.
In my opinion, rust encapsulation is the most important thing. Several coats of
POR-15 Chassis Coat
Black on top of their rust encapsulator looks a lot like powder coat to me. My
son was visiting and
picked up some suspension parts I was doing with Chassis Coat Black and said
"Is this some special
kind of paint?" I guess it is.
I keep asking if powder coat is a rust encapsulator. No one replies. If it is,
it might be a better
choice. Rust encapsulation is important even with sand blasting. When I did my
brake calipers, I
could not get all the rust out of the pits with bead blasting. I could see the
pits get darker with
rust in hours after bead blasting. I waited a day, and they were so rusty I had
to reblast them. I
then painted them with POR-15 Gray within the hour.
BTW, POR-15 claims to be good for 600 degrees, so that's a plus in some cases.
I think Magnet is
300. Not sure about Eastwood. I won't buy Eastwood again. Dies too fast. I
guess I already said that
:-)
Don Malling
Todd Bermudez wrote:
> Ronald,
>
> If you haven't already, plan on checking all the known
> weak points on the frame or the points that typically
> crack or the welds don't hold. Like the steering rack
> mounts, the diff mounts...if it's an early frame...get
> the reinforcement kit.
>
> I did POR-15 & coated the heck out of my frame. Then
> I scuffed it & painted it with the POR Chassis
> black...man you can hit it with a hammer...no
> chips...nothin'...looks great. Seems a shame to put a
> body on it:-))
>
> My 2 cents,
>
> Todd Bermudez
> CD198L(frame is done)
> CF25768UO
>
> --- Ronald Dowty <rdowty@dowtyenterprises.com> wrote:
>
>
>>I'm about done with my frame and will need to coat
>>it with something.
>>I've got a pressurized blaster that will do a good
>>job of removing all
>>the old paint and getting it prepped if I paint it.
>>If I powder coat it
>>all I have to do is write a check but it'll cost
>>more. I'm leaning
>>towards painting it. It was painted with Eastwood
>>Chassis Black over
>>their rust preventative but I didn't like it because
>>you could not
>>recoat it without the paint lifting. They've got a
>>new formula that
>>doesn't have this problem. Also I used aerosol cans
>>last time and I
>>think I'll use foam brushes and rollers if I paint
>>it myself.
>>
>>Questions:
>>
>>Should I paint it for ($100) or powder coat it
>>(single coat probably
>>$300)?
>>
>>If I paint it myself should I use normal chassis
>>black paint, POR-15 or
>>the new stuff from Eastwood? If so should I use
>>something else for
>>primer?
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