The bracket Lou made up for me looks great. I have not tried it yet as I am
taking on the project of converting to a single Weber. See one of Tom's
rules. After the conversion of the carbs, I will undertake the Alternator
Conversion. As far as the Carb Conversion everything is going smoothly. I
just have to feed the new carb some fuel. I have a problem locating an
adapter for the fuel pump to convert the British pipe threading to a 3/8
fuel line. Any help on this one? Also does anyone know where I can get
some flat aluminum stock approx 1" thick?
From: Louis & Laila [mailto:email@example.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 8:57 PM
To: Jay_Laifman; servaij
Subject: Re: Wiring alternative Alternator
Jay and Jan Wrote:
> >Did the pulley line up OK? That seems to be the hardest
> >thing to get right. I have even seen various rebuilt OEM
> >alternators not line up for some reason.
> Yes. Actually, I'm not convinced the water pump pulley and the crank are
> exact. But, I've got the alternator on the same exact plane as the water
> pump pulley.
The following is a letter I sent to John Stanco. I made a bracket for
him so he could use the alternator with his headers. I found it funny that
others had trouble aligning the pulleys. Your work adds credibility to my
letter to John! I used the Tech tip as developed by Tom Wiencek, the kind
and genius Sunbeam guru from Chicago. It is posted on the TJ Higgens
website. I have no specs on the alternator other than the fact it is rated
around 35 amps though when tested by Mike (Howard doesn't own the place
anymore), it was putting out 50 some amps. He said they put out more than
they are rated but can only do so for so long and then they burn up.
According to an alternator "cheat sheet" that Mike gave me, it lists
one of the differences between the 14231 and 14597.
The "R" terminal on the 14597 is "Positive (+) battery input (battery
voltage sensing terminal0 used on integral voltage regulators, usually
controlled by ignition switch.
The "S" on the 14231 is "SENSE: Positive (+) battery voltage input,
similar to "R" but usually unswitched connection directly to battery (hot
all the time). Some conversion units may bypass this terminal.
Here is the letter:
Here is the skinny on the alternator conversion. I went to Autozone,
Checker, and then to a local alternator specific repair shop. I looked at a
number of different alternators, and they are many. Externally they are all
the same. The difference is in the rear connection. The article states that
the alternator that is used on all of the vehicles is the same. It is not.
The one used on the Datsun is different than the one used on the courier and
The difference is the Datsun unit has an "S" connection on the rear,
and the Mazda (ford) unit has the "R" connection on the rear. If you go to
Autozone or any other standard automotive parts store, the Part numbers for
the two units are Datsun: 14231, and the others take a 14597. That seems to
be an industry standard, and even "Howard's Alternators & Starters" uses it.
I looked on the sheet in Checkers, and it said not to switch the two. I
think it is primarily due to the fact that constant voltage on the later
unit will burn it up. I don't know.
Now, the clincher is that the Checkers prices were $49.95 for the 14231,
while they wanted $69.95 for the 14597. Autozone was $49.95 for the 14231
and $89.95 for the 14597. There was a core charge of about $15.00.
Talking to Mike (Howard doesn't own the place anymore), he explained to
me that there is no problem in substituting the two alternators since the I
would be using a system that cut power to the "S" when not in use. I bought
his alternator at $59.95 with no core charge (14231), and he threw in a
cannon plug so I can splice it in and it won't look too hokey. He also gave
me this alternator cheat sheet of which I have made a copy for you. I wished
I had one of these years ago.
Now, I am including a bolt to mount the darn thing. All of this lined
up on one engine I had, but was a little off on another. My first one lined
up on one, but when I put it on the other, the bracket was back about a
washer thickness. I kept that one for myself. The second one that I made, I
made to fit the engine where the pulley was a little far forward. If the
alternator sits a little farther forward than it should (We are talking
1/32"-3/64"), then grind off the face a little. In the outside possibility
that it is to far back, mount a washer between the flange of the alternator
and the front flange of the bracket.
Before you attempt to put the alternator on, put the bracket on the
engine, and ensure the bolt will go through to the welded nut. It may hit
the engine mount plate. This will be self-evident. Hold a cold chisel on
that spot and smack it with a hammer and this should give you enough
You no longer need the voltage regulator. Follow the directions for its
removal or isolation.