well... that's good for starters.
as for removing the copper and replacing with stainless... it's quite simple
really... easy to show how to do it... but hard to explain... or at least
hard for ME to explain... the best bet would be to remove the copper
wire... measure the diameter... find some stainless of the same diameter
(most of the time .041 is used)(mcmaster supply would be a good source...
also any aircraft supply should have it)... then tap it into the groove with
a brass hammer... just so it is "stuck" in the groove... to keep it in
place... but it doesn't need to be "mashed" in place... the gasket will do
that. and where the two ends meet... just use a
pair of wire cutters to cut the wire so when it's put into the groove it
butts against the start of the wire ring.
as for o-ringing the head... that's a bit more complex... and requires a
machine shop with a boring bar... a mill... and a very competent machinist.
the preferred way is to place the o-ring in the head... then place a
receiver groove in the block to match... the receiver would be a wider
groove... but on the same diameter as the o-ring... so the gasket would be
pushed by the wire into the receiver groove... sort of locking it in.
actually... since you already have the ring in the block... unless your
gonna be using a large shot of nitrous... or have some high compression...
12:1 or more... the o-ring in the block should be fine... but i would
change over to stainless.
as for having the block milled to remove the grooves... be very careful as
to just how much you remove... if you remove too much... then you might run
into troubles with piston to valve clearances... head to piston
clearances... and "quench" clearances... and on the 2000s... it could lead
to chain/cam timing troubles... especially if the head has been milled also.
i am not saying that milling the block down .030"+... won't... can't... or
hasn't worked... but just be cautious to potential headaches.
----- Original Message -----
From: Pamela Pepoy <gppepoy@cybertrails.com>
To: Helter Skelter <helterskelter@home.com>
Cc: Henry Bahn <hbahn@home.com>; John F Sandhoff <sandhoff@csus.edu>;
datsunmike <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>; Datsun Roadster List
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2001 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: Copper head gaskets - leak free
> Each cylinder has a ring that goes completely around the circumference of
the
> cylinder. So... I have four copper circles embeded into the engine block.
Each
> cylinder has its own copper ring. Sounds like it might be wise to use
> stainless? Is it difficult to switch from copper to stainless? It also
sounds
> like it might be a good idea to O ring the head to match the block. Is
this
> necessary? I am new to this. Never seen an O ringed anything before.
> Thanks for the help.
> Guy
> 67.5 Stroker
> Tempe, AZ
>
> Helter Skelter wrote:
>
> > which part?
> > the o-ring both head and block?
> > or the use of silicone?
> >
> > the use of silicone will work in either case... o-ringing both head and
> > block depends on how the job was done... is your block o-ringed so as
each
> > cylinder has it's own ring... or are they o-ringed so a pair of
cylinders
> > share one common wire?
> >
> > as for the wire... i prefer the stainless steel wire since it does not
> > distort... it compresses the copper gasket... rather than both just kind
of
> > "mushing" together.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Pamela Pepoy <gppepoy@cybertrails.com>
> > To: Helter Skelter <helterskelter@home.com>
> > Cc: Henry Bahn <hbahn@home.com>; John F Sandhoff <sandhoff@csus.edu>;
> > datsunmike <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>; Datsun Roadster List
> > <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2001 6:25 PM
> > Subject: Re: Copper head gaskets - leak free
> >
> > > Greetings Mr. Helter,
> > > I am impresed. What a simple yet elegant solution. My block has a
> > copper wire
> > > embeded into a groove that has been milled into the block. It is
> > positioned
> > > about .125" beyound the edge of the cylinder cavity. I estimate the
> > copper wire
> > > extends above the block's surface about .031. Does this still sound
like
> > a
> > > likely candidate for your technique?
> > > Many Thanks,
> > > Guy
> > >
> > > Helter Skelter wrote:
> > >
> > > > i have used copper head gaskets on a variety of engines... and
without
> > much
> > > > trouble. the best way to seal it for compression is to o-ring the
head
> > with
> > > > a .041 inch stainless wire... and do a "receiver groove" in the
block...
> > > > though... just o-ringing the block will work... just not as well.
> > also... do
> > > > each hole separately...do not "figure 8" the cylinders as failure
can
> > occur
> > > > between the common wire. i have found that the only way to keep them
> > from
> > > > "seeping" water/coolant ... is to use a thin bead of clear silicone
> > around
> > > > every single hole in the gasket except bolt holes... on both head
and
> > block
> > > > surfaces... also around the parameter. SCE and other gasket
manufactures
> > say
> > > > to use things like "hylomar"... "gasket cinch"... or "copper
coat"...
> > these
> > > > do not work... just plain old clear silicone does the trick. i have
3
> > years
> > > > so far... on one of my personal vehicles without a single weep...
> > seep...
> > > > drip or drop.
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Henry Bahn <hbahn@home.com>
> > > > To: John F Sandhoff <sandhoff@csus.edu>; datsunmike
> > <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
> > > > Cc: Datsun Roadster List <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 6:06 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Copper head gaskets - leak free
> > > >
> > > > > It's a pain in the butt. At least it was for me on several
> > occasions - on
> > > > > an AL head with studs, even. Nothing I tried - probably every
sealer
> > > > known
> > > > > to man - reliably worked. I'm back to plain 'ole Nissan gaskets.
> > > > >
> > > > > JH Bahn
> > > > > '66 1600 vintage race
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