I'll have to disagree somewhat. I just pulled the starter from my '70 2K a
few months back. (Manifold and short starter.) I had to twist, yank, pull,
cuss, and pry on it to get out. My '69 2K had a header and short starter.
It wouldn't come out any way, shape, or form. I had to pull the header.
Unfortunatly I didn't know about the gusset removal trick at that time. Not
that it helped much. I forgot to do it the last time around on my '70!
Stupidity ranks supreme!
Here's a thought. Could the original body mount pads have compressed over
the years? It is only a fraction of an inch that keeps it from comming out
easily.
Best regards,
Fred Schroeder
Denison, TX
SRL311-13359
TDROC
Reg e-mail sitsinwest@texoma.net
Home page http://home.texoma.net/~sitsinwest
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Laury" <vlaury@earthlink.net>
To: "Mark Clary" <mclary8@home.com>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 12:55 PM
Subject: Late Model Starter Removal
> >Is there an easy way to remove the starter from 69 2L?
>
> Mary,
>
> I have read the other replies to you from Fred and Steve and would add my
> views.
>
> I have had no more troubles with headers or stock manifold. The headers
> become a problem only if there is a long style starter used. Since the
long
> style was used in the 1600 models I don't think you will have that
problem.
>
> The "Gusset removal" is only needed in the early roadsters. Your 1969 will
> not need any modification to remove your starter.
>
> You should remove the driver side front wheel to give you an open view of
> the starter. Disconnect the negative battery post before you start work or
> you might weld a tool or worse, weld a piece of flesh! Ouch! working from
> the wheel well, disconnect the terminals on the starter. Remove the heavy
> ground wire running from the bottom starter mounting bolt to the frame. If
> this wire is not there, that is the most likely reason your starter burned
> out!
>
> The top mounting bolt is the hard nut here! You might be able to get at it
> with a 14 mm socket and extensions from the front, around the back of the
> manifold. If you can your in luck. If not, The back carb will be in the
way
> of getting at it from the top. The easiest way to get the back carb off is
> to take the front one off first.
>
> Once the starter is free, turn it so the nose is pointing out the wheel
> well. This is easier said than done, so take your time. You may have to
turn
> the starter many times before finding that perfect configuration where the
> starter will pass between the frame and the body, out the wheel well, but,
> soon you'll have the offending motor in hand.
>
> Your local Auto electric shop will be able to rebuild that puppy for 40 ~
60
> dollars. I keep a spare, ready to go in my garage. Heat is the other
reason
> we have so many starter troubles. I installed a heat shield wrap, that I
> bought from a speed shop, but it did not last very long. Another good Idea
> is the "Tilton Super Starter" type gear reduction motor or Vendors sell.
> These motors are smaller so they are farther away from the exhaust heat.
>
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