Hi Gang,
For the past few months (I know, just a Newbie) I have been
assembling a reference notebook of interesting facts and
comments for use on my '66' 1600 project. It is sort of a
grass catcher of odds and ends and ,of course, this list has
been a fountain of wisdom toward that end.
I should explain I am on an almost non-existent budget for
my intended revival (restoration?) project [read that as I'm
unemployed and simply broke!] So, I am always on the look
out for ways to use labor, skill, knowledge and "existing
resources" as a substitute for spending the money I simply
don't have. Naturally, I really enjoy doing these things so
making my own tools and fabricating parts etc. are all
labors of love and great personal satisfaction.
Anyway, I came across a fantastic article in Rod & Custom
Magazine (November, 2001 page 148) on how to check and
clean out a long-neglected fuel system, (any car, of
course), with particular attention to cleaning out the gas
tank without having to hot tank it ($$$$$?), or
sand/bead/nutshell blast it, etc.; and also how to clean the
fuel lines. If you can get it (library?) do yourself a big
favor and ignore the rest of this message. The article is
very short but I don't think I'm supposed to copy it without
permission, right? So, I'm "paraphrasing" it here. Too
bad, my explanation is more than twice as long and half as
good. Sorry!
The process may seem a bit primitive, but it seems very
sound
In a very large nutshell: the tank is drained, the sending
unit removed from the tank; the tank is removed from the
vehicle; (the last two steps may be reversed depending on
the design of the tank/sending unit for different makes of
car); visually check for rust and holes. If it seems okay,
except for the crud: pour in some solvent or diesel fuel
[that's what it said!?] and toss in some nuts and bolts (or
a foot or so of heavy chain); plug all openings [naturally,
duct tape was mentioned in the article]; and shake FOREVER!
[many helpers with strong arms and a sense of humor would be
a big help on this part]; dump [Oops!], I mean properly
dispose of the dirty solvent; rinse with more solvent,
inspect again; repeat as needed (nuts and bolts or chain are
reusable and recoverable, of course) and then uncover all
openings and sun dry for hours to allow any remaining
solvent to evaporate [but keep away from all animals,
especially children]. Reinstall tank and sending unit [you
could have tank coated, lined, or treated if needed or
desired but that is not in the article and probably very
expensive unless you do it yourself] put in new gasoline and
that part is done.
Cleaning the fuel lines is even easier, but more time
consuming.
If lines are really nasty, they can be "snaked" out before
the cleaning process [explained below] by using the
"flexible shaft" from an old speedometer cable (the driven
wire rope part that goes inside the non-moving sheath.)
Just chuck the driven end in a VARIABLE SPEED hand drill and
insert the rest of the flexible shaft into the fuel line
[think of the fuel line as a substitute new cable sheath].
The real cleaning is done by the scrubbing action of the
snake itself flailing around and rubbing against the inside
of the tube [Be very careful here and start up V-E-R-Y
S-L-O-W-L-Y. Unless all but an inch or so of the "snake" is
in the fuel line "sheath" any flex shaft outside of the tube
can twist, kink, pinch, flail about, and be quite dangerous
and frustrating. That is why I recommend a variable speed
drill and slow start up.] If the cable is not long enough
for the whole fuel line, just repeat the process from other
end of fuel line to clean as much of the line as possible.
Carefully blow out with compressed air and follow the
cleaning -instructions below.
Disconnect both ends of the fuel line. Removal from vehicle
is best, of course. Simply plug one end, fill the line with
solvent (just spray in carburetor cleaner) and plug the
open end. Let it soak (overnight) and then drain. Blow out
the line with compressed air to force out any "heavier"
debris. Repeat as needed until solvent comes out clean.
Unlike the tank, it could take forever for solvent to
evaporate in a fuel line and it is almost impossible to see
any debris that is "just hanging on", so it is a really good
idea (vital?) to blow out the cleaned fuel line with
compressed air, as the last step.
The article recommends putting fuel filters on BOTH ends of
the cleaned fuel line to prevent carburetor damage during
initial operation. [I guess just in case some debris may
not have flushed out or may have been broken loose but not
fully detached during the cleaning process.] Watch the
filters carefully the first month or so of operation. It's
up to you whether or not you want to keep them in after
that.
It took much longer to describe it here than the article
itself, but you get the idea.
Keep those ideas coming folks, you are the greatest!
Bob Giel, Los Angeles
SPL311-05249 (a '66'-1600)
--
Nothing is fool-proof to a sufficiently talented fool.
and remember:
When man ultimately meets his Maker, he will have to answer
to Him
for all of those G-d given pleasures of life, of which he
did not take full advantage.
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