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Re: Old Gasoline (too long?)

To: "Robert Giel" <giel@earthlink.net>,
Subject: Re: Old Gasoline (too long?)
From: "Fred Schroeder" <roadster@texoma.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 22:15:54 -0600
Hi Bob,

One small problem with a Roadster tank: they have baffles.  You can access
the right (filler side) section through the filler hole.  The center section
can be accessed via the sender hole.  But the left section is inaccessible
without cutting the tank.  The folks at "Gas Tank Renu" charged extra to cut
and patch my tank because of this.

BTW, your comment "Nothing is fool-proof to a sufficiently talented fool" is
absolutely priceless!  I'm going to print it up and hang it on the wall at
work.

Best regards,

Fred Schroeder
'70 2000
SRL311-13359
TDROC
Home page http://home.texoma.net/~sitsinwest/

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Giel" <giel@earthlink.net>
To: "datsun-roadsters" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 4:15 PM
Subject: RE: Old Gasoline (too long?)


> Hi Gang,
>
> For the past few months (I know, just a Newbie) I have been
> assembling a reference notebook of interesting facts and
> comments for use on my '66' 1600 project.  It is sort of a
> grass catcher of odds and ends and ,of course, this list has
> been a fountain of wisdom toward that end.
>
> I should explain I am on an almost non-existent budget for
> my intended revival (restoration?) project [read that as I'm
> unemployed and simply broke!]   So, I am always on the look
> out for ways to use labor, skill, knowledge and "existing
> resources" as a substitute for spending the money I simply
> don't have.  Naturally, I really enjoy doing these things so
> making my own tools and fabricating parts etc. are all
> labors of love and great personal satisfaction.
>
> Anyway, I came across a fantastic article in Rod & Custom
> Magazine  (November, 2001 page 148) on how to check and
> clean out a long-neglected fuel system, (any car, of
> course), with particular attention to cleaning out the gas
> tank without having to hot tank it ($$$$$?), or
> sand/bead/nutshell blast it, etc.; and also how to clean the
> fuel lines.  If you can get it (library?) do yourself a big
> favor and ignore the rest of this message. The article is
> very short but I don't think I'm supposed to copy it without
> permission, right?  So, I'm "paraphrasing" it here.  Too
> bad, my explanation is more than  twice as long and half as
> good.  Sorry!
>
> The process may seem a bit primitive, but it seems very
> sound
>
> In a very large nutshell:  the tank is drained, the sending
> unit removed from the tank; the tank is removed from the
> vehicle; (the last two steps may be reversed depending on
> the design of the tank/sending unit for different makes of
> car); visually check for rust and holes.  If it seems okay,
> except for the crud: pour in some solvent or diesel fuel
> [that's what it said!?] and toss in some nuts and bolts (or
> a foot or so of heavy chain); plug all openings [naturally,
> duct tape was mentioned in the article];  and shake FOREVER!
> [many helpers with strong arms and a sense of humor would be
> a big help on this part]; dump [Oops!], I mean properly
> dispose of the dirty solvent;  rinse with more solvent,
> inspect again; repeat as needed (nuts and bolts or chain are
> reusable and recoverable, of course) and then uncover all
> openings and sun dry for hours to allow any remaining
> solvent to evaporate [but keep away from all animals,
> especially children].  Reinstall tank and sending unit [you
> could have tank coated, lined, or treated if needed or
> desired but that is not in the article and probably very
> expensive unless you do it yourself] put in new gasoline and
> that part is done.
>
> Cleaning the fuel lines is even easier, but more time
> consuming.
>
> If lines are really nasty, they can be "snaked" out before
> the cleaning process [explained below] by using the
> "flexible shaft" from an old speedometer cable (the driven
> wire rope part that goes inside the non-moving sheath.)
> Just chuck the driven end in a VARIABLE SPEED hand drill and
> insert the rest of the flexible shaft into the fuel line
> [think of the fuel line as a substitute  new cable sheath].
> The real cleaning is done by the scrubbing action of the
> snake itself flailing around and rubbing against the inside
> of the tube [Be very careful here and start up V-E-R-Y
> S-L-O-W-L-Y.  Unless all but an inch or so of the "snake" is
> in the fuel line "sheath" any flex shaft outside of the tube
> can twist, kink, pinch, flail about, and be quite dangerous
> and frustrating.   That is why I recommend a variable speed
> drill and slow start up.]   If the cable is not long enough
> for the whole fuel line, just repeat the process from other
> end of fuel line to clean as much of the line as possible.
> Carefully blow out with compressed air and follow the
> cleaning -instructions below.
>
> Disconnect both ends of the fuel line.  Removal from vehicle
> is best, of course.  Simply plug one end, fill the line with
> solvent (just spray in carburetor cleaner)  and plug the
> open end.  Let it soak (overnight) and then drain. Blow out
> the line with compressed air to force out any "heavier"
> debris.  Repeat as needed until solvent comes out clean.
> Unlike the tank, it could take forever for solvent to
> evaporate in a fuel line and it is almost impossible to see
> any debris that is "just hanging on", so it is a really good
> idea (vital?) to blow out the cleaned fuel line with
> compressed air, as the last step.
>
> The article recommends putting fuel filters on BOTH ends of
> the cleaned fuel line to prevent carburetor damage during
> initial operation.  [I guess just in case some debris may
> not have flushed out or may have been broken loose but not
> fully detached during the cleaning process.]  Watch the
> filters carefully the first month or so of operation.  It's
> up to you whether or not you want to keep them in after
> that.
>
> It took much longer to describe it here than the article
> itself, but you get the idea.
>
> Keep those ideas coming folks, you are the greatest!
>
> Bob Giel, Los Angeles
> SPL311-05249  (a '66'-1600)
> --
> Nothing is fool-proof to a sufficiently talented fool.
>         and remember:
> When man ultimately meets his Maker, he will have to answer
> to Him
> for all of those G-d given pleasures of life, of which he
> did not take full advantage.
>
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