Mike,
THere could be a number of problems. First, the fuse instead of the
ammeter. If you just bought a cheap in line fuse holder such as the one
that would be ued on a car radio or something like that, the wire that it
is wired with is much too small to support the 30 A. that the ammeter
would have been able to take. This could cause the overheating fo the fuse
and wires that you mentioned. It could not, however, keep the car from
turning over. The current to pull in the starter solenoid flows through
the ammeter/fuse, but it is only a few amps, so that would not cause the
problems.
As for the lack of lights, and clock, I would check the 3 or 4 pin plug
that is under the carbs, connecting the starter to the wiring harness.
That connector is in a poor location, getting baked by the exhaust and
wet/dirty from road water/dirt. The connector corrodes quite often. Moving
the harness to replace the starter may have caused the connector to
develop a bad connection. Another cause would be a lead that was connected
to the old starter that didn't get connected back to the same connection
on the new starter. Finally, there could be a bad connection on either of
the battery cables at the battery, engine block, body/frame, or starter.
The way I would troubleshoot it is to turn the headlights on and then
check voltages to ground, starting at the + battery post (not the cable
end), then the battery cable end on the battery post, the starter (big
cable), harness plug, and finally the ammeter/fuse connections.
IF all those turn out to be good, then go to the - battery post, battery
cable, engine ground and frame/body. On this circuit the reading should be
zero, but will be over 10 Volts before you get to the open connection.
Let me know if you need more help on this.
What year is you car?
What does the battery - cable hook to, the body/frame, or the engine
block? Is there a similar sized cable connecting the engine block to the
body/frame?
Peace,
Pat
- Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor/Future planner, CS Dept,
University of Texas, 1 University Station C0500,Austin, Tx. 78712-1188 USA
voice (512)471-9730, fax (512)471-8885, horne@cs.utexas.edu
On Mon, 13 Jan 2003, datsun_sports wrote:
> hi all,
>
> I installed a gear reduction starter. i hooked everything up and i cannot
> get it to start. the starter makes a clicking sound and the fan blade turns
> a little. i thought the battery was dead since the car has not been run for
> about two months. the battery was charged from my truck but the same thing
> happened. i then tried to jump it off my wife's car. same problem. I now
> have no lights, horn, etc. the battery reads a little under 11 volts. my
> ammeter is out of the car and i have a fuse wired temporarily in its place.
> the fuse and the wire was very hot. could not hold it. other than that there
> is nothing else that I have done to the car. the fuses are good in the fuse
> block. the car ran fine before i yanked the carbs to have them rebuilt. the
> only modification to the electrical system was the addition of the new
> starter. the clock is not working now and the lights do not work. i believe
> that i should at least get lights and clock movement on a low battery. is
> this the case?any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> thx,
>
> mike
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