Matt,
I have a GM alternator in Mr. Hyde. If I remember correctly the idiot light
is the excitation lead. I played with several bulbs in this circuit and
found that some caused the alternator to require a lot of revs before it
would come to life. I finally ended up with a #53 bulb, which requires a
few RPM to start charging the battery, but it is a good compromise for me.
Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
http://www.nowroc.org
On 9/12/2007 8:34:17 AM, Matthew A. Smith (matthews517@earthlink.net)
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Long time no see!
>
> I have been running a 10SI alternator on Loreli for several months now.
> Here's the issue. At idle (approx 700 RPM), the alt doesn't put out
> enough
> power to fully power the headlights. My solution was to put a smaller
> pulley
> on the alt. This seems to have worked OK. (FYI, this is no easy task.
> That
> nut is on there REALLY TIGHT!!!)
>
>
>
> My question involves the wiring for the alt. I have a 10 ga wire going to
> the battery from the alt stud. I have a 10 ga wire going from the alt
> stud
> to the #1 terminal on the alt (yes, yes, everything
> I've seen says it goes
> to the #2 terminal). I have an idiot light going from the + side of the
coil
> to the #2 terminal. I also have a 10 ga wire going to the original red
BATT
> wire for the stock alt (thru a 30 amp maxi fuse as suggested on 311s.org)
> just to cover all my bases.
>
>
>
> Why does my alternator work wired like this and not when wired correctly?
> i.e. alt stud to #2 and idiot light to #1? When looking at the alt from
the
> rear, the case is marked as #1 on the left (it's
> also marked with an
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