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Re: [Fot] diff

To: "Bill Babcock" <billb@bnj.com>, "riverside" <riverside@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] diff
From: "Greg Solow" <gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2007 18:56:17 -0800
When  I had  the diff on my Morgan welded up, the welder cut out two 
rectangular plates of steel that will lie down and fill in the space between 
the spider and side pinion gears in the interior of the diff. Then the gears 
are welded to the steel plate on each of the 4 sides where they touch. This 
spreads the load of the weld over a larger area and helps reduce chance of a 
failure in the material next to the weld.  I have been running a welded 4.11 
diff for years with no problems, at least so far.
    My 3.73 :1 diff is a modified Salisbury clutch type limited slip. It is 
modified so that it functions like a "Detroit Locker" in that it is locked 
up solid whenever the gas is applied and unlocks when the car is coasting or 
the throttle is released. There was an article in "Hot Rod" magazine by 
"Pepe Estrada" who was teaching at National Technical Trade School in LA at 
the time. Apparently Chevy 409 drag cars were burning up their clutch type 
limited slips because the clutches were "slipping" and generating to much 
heat in the diff. His fix was to remove all of the "spring clutch" plates 
from the clutch pack, set up the total end float within the clutch pack to 
.010" and aluminum oxide blast the plates to give them more "bite". The set 
up works great. That diff is the one that I used until I was able to afford 
to build a 2'nd diff, (the 4.11), is the one that I on use in my street car, 
and still use at high speed tracks like Elkhart Lake.
.    The welding sometimes causes the side gears to distort a little and the 
axles might have to have the splines polished down in size slightly so they 
will fit into the side gears after the welding. Try the fit before 
assembling the diff into the housing.
                                                                             
                        Greg Solow







                                                                             
                                                                             
                                                                             
            ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <billb@bnj.com>
To: "riverside" <riverside@cedar-rapids.net>
Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] diff


> Sounds like people are being a bit "elegant" about their diff
> welding. I have one for Peyote that I can't imagine ever breaking
> (especially since it's sitting on a shelf. The spider gears are
> hardly visible under the weld, which was obvously applied with a huge
> welder that enabled deep penetration of the heavy parts. the bead is
> about 3/4 of an inch wide.
> On Jan 25, 2007, at 9:30 AM, riverside wrote:
>
>> Used Greg's technique for welding up my TR3
>> diff and never had a failure. Sort of stumbled on
>> it after welding things up solid and having the
>> welds fail without additional damage. Car was
>> still hard to drive on the pace lap, but having
>> the outside wheel always powered was well
>> worth it.
>>
>> art d
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