I had this type of repair completed on a head and also a block for the 1967
GT-6, the first in he country that I was working with without too much
success. That pair of castings went on to live throughout the work. The
repair is GOOD.
*Never be beaten by equipment.*
On Fri, Dec 26, 2014 at 3:40 PM, Rich <rikrock@live.com> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions!
>
> Here's the plan for repair:
>
> First, the head will get magnafluxed to determine if it has any other
> cracks.
> If the head passes that test, the repair to the two troubling cracks will
> be
> done by "stitching".
>
> My machinist has a fair amount of experience with this process which
> involves
> drilling and tapping a series of holes along the centerline of the entire
> crack. This will be done one at a time, starting with the end closest to
> the
> combustion chamber.
>
> The hole gets tapped using a special tap similar to a pipe thread tap and
> the
> special (cast iron) tapered bolt gets threaded in and cut off near the head
> surface, to be made even with the surface when the final machining is done.
>
> The holes get drilled so that each successive bolt has some contact with
> the
> preceding bolt near the head surface, and each bolt gets coated with a
> special
> epoxy before being threaded in.
>
> Wherever possible, the bolts will be installed so that they bottom out, and
> act as "stakes" just as Kas details in his book. Additional stakes will
> also
> be installed away from the crack in an effort to stop any further collapse
> of
> this already thin (shaved about .150") head in this area and hopefully add
> even more stability to the repair.
>
> We'll see how it turns out.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Rich Rock
> ________________________________
> From: michael
> Sent: 12/24/2014 3:39 PM
> To: Doug Mitchell; Tony Drews; fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> Years ago, I remember taking a TR3 head to a place in Long Island City, New
> York called Cool Weld. Using a process called "cold welding" they patched
> a
> combustion chamber. This wasn't a crack, it was a hole but it worked on
> cracks
> as well.
>
> That was my back-up head and it worked fine for several races and also for
> the
> guy who bought the car.
>
> Mike Cook
>
> > Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 13:03:52 -0500
> > From: dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> > To: tony@tonydrews.com; fot@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
> >
> > You might check into an old-school technique of cold stitching. Not sure
> if
> it works on a head, but have seen it done on blocks. Not cheap and
> intensive
> work, but it can recover a block.
> >
> >
> > Doug
> > dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> > Sent from my mobile phone
> >
> > -------- Original message --------
> > From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
> > Date: 12/24/2014 12:27 PM (GMT-05:00)
> > To: fot@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
> >
> > I received a picture of the head - the crack is to the point where if
> > it grows any further there will be definite sealing issues on #2 and
> > probably #3.B I like this suggestion - a hole to stop the propagation
> > and silver solder to seal it back up.B I'll have to remember that one!
> >
> > When I went through the "cracked head" issue (mine wasn't
> > repairable), someone suggested "stitching" which is a series of
> > threaded plugs run through the crack.B That's the only other fix that
> > comes to mind.
> >
> > Cheers, Tony Drews
> >
> > At 05:53 AM 12/24/2014, MadMarx wrote:
> > >You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
> > >silver solder.
> > >Seems to work fine with a good success rate.
> > >
> > >Cheers
> > >Chris
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >fot@autox.team.net
> > >
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