I?ve broken my flywheel bolts twice, once with minimal damage, once with the
flywheel cutting the transmission off the engine and dropping it onto the track
at maximum speed at the end of a long straight. I?ve never broken wheel studs.
Even if I did the calculations and believed the forces were higher on the
wheels (I don?t, seems to me there are two drive wheels dividing the force and
they?re certainly spinning slower) I?d still trust my experience and go with as
good a connection there as possible.
> On Jun 22, 2017, at 11:31 PM, Christian Marx via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> Please excuse my sarcasm, but don't forget to dowel pin your car wheels, as
> the forces are a lot higher than on the flywheel.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
> Gesendet von meinem Windows 10 Phone
>
> Gesendet: Freitag, 23. Juni 2017 08:05
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Car spin
>
> And regarding flywheel bolts?usually the dowels are a pretty tight
> fit?tighter than the shoulders of the bolts. They are also square and better
> for resisting rotational force. I think flywheels slip and slide?not much of
> course, but there?s a lot of force applied there. I?m equally comfortable
> with more hard bolts than stock. Six is good, eight is better. But a couple
> of dowels is nice too. I don?t think they simply locate.
>
> > On Jun 22, 2017, at 4:34 PM, Mordy Dunst via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> > Here is a thought question: could you reduce rate of a car spinning about
> > its center of mass by reving the flywheel faster in neutral?
> >
> >
> > MDunst Headgasket.com 626.358.1616
> > Fax 626.628.3777
> > Triple R Munitions, Inc 626.201.9471
> > T FFL 6,7 SOT 2
> >
> > On Thursday, June 22, 2017, Christian Marx via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> > My thought is that a dowel pin has no other function than matching the
> > parts together. The pin is not a press fit in most cases.
> >
> > This means, if the dowel pin get rotational forces, then all is too late
> > and the car has to be parked.
> >
> >
> >
> > The rotational force get transferred by the clamping force and the
> > resulting friction between fly wheel an crank only.
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> >
> > Gesendet von meinem Windows 10 Phone
> >
> >
> >
> > Von: Steve Yott via Fot
> > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. Juni 2017 12:55
> > An: 'Scott Janzen'; 'Barr, Scott'
> > Cc: 'FOT'
> > Betreff: Re: [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question
> >
> >
> >
> > Properly made and installed that would be an good solution. Issue is that
> > if they are not sized properly and they should have a t-shape and be
> > counter sunk they can cause even worse failure.
> >
> >
> >
> > The right bolt used with the proper washer has a very large surface area
> > and the bolt itself is shouldered resulting in a pretty strong install.
> >
> >
> >
> > The next best thing to do IMHO is to install a second dowel pin. The real
> > purpose of the bolt is to hold the flywheel onto the crank but the main
> > strength is the counter sunk flywheel over the face of the crankshaft and
> > the dowels holding the rotation forces. This way if the bolts should break
> > you have two dowels which will prevent the flywheel from flying in an egg
> > shape and destroying everything in its path.
> >
> >
> >
> > Now the absolute best thing is to not use an aluminum flywheel! There is a
> > reason they are not allowed in Europe?.. Buy a steel flywheel and use 6
> > to 8 bolts then most of the issues are gone.
> >
> >
> >
> > IMHO
> >
> >
> >
> > Steve Yott
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Scott Janzen [mailto:sjanzen at me.com]
> > Sent: Monday, June 05, 2017 3:28 PM
> > To: Barr, Scott <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
> > Cc: timmmurphh at gmail.com; Steve Yott <tr4 at wi.rr.com>; STEPHEN
> > BOROWSKI <biznzman at pacbell.net>; FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question
> >
> >
> > Don't you guys use steel inserts in those flywheel holes?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >
> > On Jun 5, 2017, at 7:55 AM, Barr, Scott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> > This is what it looks like if you forget to chamfer the flywheel holes to
> > clear the radius under the head.
> >
> >
> >
> > <image001.jpg>
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of timmmurphh---
> > via Fot
> > Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 5:53 PM
> > To: 'Steve Yott' <tr4 at wi.rr.com>; 'STEPHEN BOROWSKI' <biznzman at
> > pacbell.net>; fot at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the clarification Steve, that makes sense.
> >
> >
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Steve Yott [mailto:tr4 at wi.rr.com]
> > Sent: Sunday, June 4, 2017 4:56 PM
> > To: timmmurphh at gmail.com; 'STEPHEN BOROWSKI' <biznzman at pacbell.net>
> > Subject: RE: [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question
> >
> >
> >
> > The reason they state to not use washers is they are afraid that the
> > washers used will (1) not be hard enough and will compress under the bolt
> > head and (2) all ARP bolts have very liberal radii between the head and
> > shank. If there is a tight fitting washer this would be strain on this
> > radius and could break the head.
> >
> >
> >
> > The 7/16? ARP bolts used on Chevy flywheels is what I fit to TR?6, late
> > Spitfires and modified TR4 cranks. These bolts come with the special
> > washers to use with them. I have used a proper washer under the 3/8? ARP
> > bolts many times with no problems using a correct washer. You can also use
> > an ARP crown wheel bolt for the same purpose and these come with proper
> > washers.
> >
> >
> >
> > Steve Yott
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of timmmurphh---
> > via Fot
> > Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 1:59 PM
> > To: 'STEPHEN BOROWSKI' <biznzman at pacbell.net>; fot at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question
> >
> >
> >
> > FWIW
> >
> >
> >
> > I just got a set of ARP 206-2802 flywheel bolts from Pegasus for the TR4.
> > They are for ?BMC A series?. The instruction specifically says, ?DO NOT
> > USE ANY WAHERS?, yes, all in caps for emphasis! They further state that
> > ARP will not be responsible for failures is washers are used. The
> > instructions also say, ?Make sure there is an adequate chamfer under the
> > bolt holes on the flywheel to clear the radius under the head of the bolt.?
> > Torque is 55 Ft-Lb with specified lubricants on the threads.
> >
> >
> >
> > I?ve never had that much good luck grinding the ends of bolts and still
> > having it square so as not to start it cocked and runing the female
> > threads. Maybe it?s just me?
> >
> >
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STEPHEN
> > BOROWSKI via Fot
> > Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 3:28 PM
> > To: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question
> >
> >
> >
> > Does anyone have experience using the ARP flywheel bolts sold by Moss and
> > others?
> >
> > I understand that you may have to shorten the bolt or it breaks the rear
> > seal???
> >
> > Are they supposed to have a washer or not?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thxs. Steve
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
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> >
> >
> >
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> >
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