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Re: Rear wheel oil seal - replacement at home?

To: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Rear wheel oil seal - replacement at home?
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 21:51:50 -0700
It's been a few years since I've done this but, yes, you can do this at
home.   You have to remove the brake drum and the axle (pretty easy).

The hub is pressed on and also held with a large 8-sided nut.
Some Listers have been able to use a large 12-pt socket (forget the size,
but it's a big one).  I'm embarrassed to admit it, but the first time I did this
I "chiseled" the nut off and used large channel locks.  There is a special
tool available, but it's $40+ and a week or two to order.  I was able to
clean the nut up with a grinder and reuse.

When (if?) you get the nut off, you'll need a pretty beefy puller to pull the 
hub; it's
an interference fit with the axle.  Once you get the hub off R&R of the seal
is straightforward (use emory cloth to clean up the outer part of the axle 
where the seal rides).  

On the BJ8--presume the BN7 is the same--there's a large O-ring and a
paper gasket on the outer surface.  Use new; if your surfaces are smooth they 
should seal up pretty well, but I know some prefer to use silicone instead of 
or in addition to the paper gasket (paper has always worked for me).

In theory, the hub should be pressed on.  However, I've replaced these twice
and used a properly sized steel pipe and some persuasion from a sledgehammer.
I know this is not kosher in theory, but if you apply the persuasion to the 
inner
bearing race and say a few "Hail Abingdons" you should be OK.  Like I say, I've 
done two with satisfactory results.

Bearing replacement is a judgement call.  They're a double race design and if
properly lubricated could last forever.   They're pretty expensive, too, and if
I recall correctly they have to be pressed in the hub.  But if there's any sign 
of
wear or discoloration get a new one.  Wouldn't hurt to pre-lube the bearing 
with 
some gear oil--whatever you use in your differential--when you re-install.

The big nut is secured with the kind of washer that you bend onto a flat (forget
what they're called--brain shutting down ;) --"lock tab" maybe).  If you have 
an 
unused portion use that, else buy new (do not re-bend a used part).

Good luck.


bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************



> I need to replace the rear wheel passenger side oil seal. Any tricks to this
> operation? Is this something I can do in the garage without special tools? I
> plan on attempting tomorrow. Should I instead just take to shop to have
> pressed in properly? My book says "replace oil seals". Not a lot o detail.
> 
> Finally got the Falcon stainless exhaust to fit. What a friggin pain. You
> would think they could make a proper fit.
> 
> Cheers,
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
> 59 MGA

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