You can do it either way. One problem that I ran into while hanging my
engine without the plate was that the extension tubes on the stand head
were not as long as they could have been. The head hit on the rear crank
flange. So it took me an extra day to get this ironed out with 4 grade 8
washers on each extension tube to give me clearance around the crank.
Some heads have longer tubes than others.
If you plan on removing the rear main cap while on the stand it seems to me
that you need to have the rear plate off to give yourself clearance.
- Original Message -----
From: "davidwjones" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
To: <HealeyBN7@aol.com>; <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2004 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: engine to stand mounting
> Hi Dave,
> I had my 3000 tricarb engine (w/ manifolds and carbs) mounted by the rear
> plate for over 2 years with no ill effects. ...It needs to be a really
> engine stand though, because of the length of the engine. I had a really
> stand marketed for large V8s, but even then, I was concerned because the
> engine is so much longer, and therefore puts a lot of torque on the head
> the engine stand. --But it held up fine.
> I arranged the mounts on the stand like this: X rather than like this:
> reasoning that this put the vertical strain on four points, rather than
> primarily on two points.
> Others may have more sophisticated approaches and reasoning.
> David W. Jones
> '62 Mk II BT7 tricarb
> Cumberland, RI USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: HealeyBN7@aol.com
> To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
> Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2004 1:46 PM
> Subject: engine to stand mounting
> I am ready to put my engine onto my engine stand. Any recommendations
> which holes to pick up on the engine rear plate? Or, which ones not to
> My first impression in looking at the rear plate is that it looks
> to be hanging an engine off of. So I thought I'd ask before I bust
> something. Thanks.
> 61 BN7