Owners might be interested in a simple test suggested to me by an 'old
timer' about 50 years ago.
Ideally you need a quiet area but it is not essential. If testing for
leaks with the vacuum advance unit out of the distributor just push the
linkage in against the internal spring, put a thumb over the suction
pipe fitting and let go of the linkage. No movement of the linkage after
the initial settling should be visible. I just count 10 slowly and then
remove my thumb, listening for the air to rush in and the linkage to
drop back to it 'off' position. If this happens then the unit is most
likely OK. If air movement can be heard or the linkage moves out during
the test; the unit is almost certainly faulty. In very bad cases the
unit will not hold vacuum at all.
It is possible to do this test with the unit still in the distributor or
car. The vacuum pipe has to be disconnected and the distributor advance
plate rotated carefully using a screwdriver.
Regards
>I disagree. by sucking on the tube you should be able to tell if the
>diaphragm is holding vacuum. If you can't develop a vacuum the unit is
>shot. If you can make a vacuum remove the distributor cap and see if
>you can make the contact plate move. If that's a go then you know the
>diaphragm is good and the unit and plate are free to move. If your
>distributor meets these basic requirements you may want to have the
>distributor tested to see if the advance curve is correct.
>
>Bill Lawrence
>
>>I don't think that your Mk. I lungs can develop enough huff or puff to
>>affect things, but at your local parts place, you should be able to get
>>a small hand-squeezed vacuum pump for exactly that sort of thing. Under
>>50 quid, I'd imagine, and it's good for all sorts of diagnostic tasks on
>>modern (emission controlled) vehicles.
>>--
>>John Miller
>
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>
--
John Harper
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