Good question, Ned. Right up there with "what's the right oil" and
"what size tire" ... should
get a lot of opinions. Here's mine:
For a highly machined, flat surface a plain paper gasket is probably
sufficient. If in doubt,
or for greater tolerances--e.g. the timing gear cover--a thin film of
Permatex Aviation
Form-A-Gasket works very well to complement the paper gasket.
Another thing to consider is "No Gasket" i.e. something like "Right
Stuff" gasket in a
can. This is (or is similar) to what most carmakers now use instead of
gaskets, e.g.
on oil sumps. I've used it successfully on differential covers when
paper gaskets cost
$11 and were hard to get. This should work well any place a cork gasket
is used, as
well. Would also probably work better than a paper gasket on the
timing gear cover
(be sure to center the seal around the crank). An interesting question
is how/where to
run the bead; if it's a blind bolt hole (does not go through), run the
bead inside the hole.
If it's a through hole (open to fluids), either run the bead outside the
bolt hole, or inside
and outside, or inside and use a thread sealer on the bolt (or all three
if you're really
anal ;)
If you're going to use the original cork--e.g. tappet covers--a thin
film of Form-A-Gasket
or a small bead of RTF works well. Go easy on the RTF, you don't want a
chunk to get
in your oil gallery.
bs
Ned Smith wrote:
>All the parts are in and I will start to reassemble the engine and
>transmission tomorrow.
>
>What is the feeling on the use of sealers? What type and where?
>
>In dismantling the engine I noticed that the only places sealers had been
>used were places previously repaired.
>
>
>
>Your comments are greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
>Ned Smith
>
>BJ8
>
>near Chattanooga, TN
>
>N34.98 W85.5
>
>
>
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
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