Hi, Bob -
The rotors on a BJ8 are bolted to the hubs and don't use studs, so pressing
in studs did not cause my problem. After we both observed the wobble in the
rotor on the car, while I watched the shop guy unbolted the rotor from the
new (defective) hub and reassembled with exactly the same parts -- rotor,
bearings, and bolts -- except that he used my old hub. After reinstallation
on the car the rotor turned absolutely true and there was no binding with
the brakes or anything else. My conclusion is that the rotor wobble was
caused by the new hub. Would anyone else reach a different conclusion?
Even if there was another cause other than the hub, would it be too much to
ask for a supplier either to replace the item immediately or ask to have it
sent in for investigation?
I would like to attend Eurofest, but it would be a 600-mile round trip for
me and there are too many other things going on. Besides, I'll probably be
busy installing the $356 worth of parts that I just bought from Moss and
didn't buy from Healey Haven!
Happy Healeying!
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 5:38 PM
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 1)
Steve,
I had a similar (the same?) problem - mine was self induced. I installed
the studs in the new hubs using a hydraulic press. I didn't support the
back side of the hub well enough or I used too much force installing the
studs. So the material around the studs deformed creating some high spots
on the side the rotor mounts to. So the rotor couldn't sit flat and had a
bunch of runout. I had to push the studs out, file the surfaces flat,
re-install the studs and the rotor. The manual says up to 0.002" lateral
runout allowed.
Are you going to be at Eurofest?
Bob
_______________________________________________
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
|