If you have an electronic ignition system fitted always check that it
can handle the the lower resistance/impedance of the coil less balast
resistor. In many systems you always have to have the resistor wired in.
They demand a total minimum resistance of some 3 Ohm. Neglecting this
may lead to a fried ingnition unit. I have seen this happening several
times with a Lumenition Magnetronic.
Kees Oudesluijs
John Harper schreef:
> Bob
>
> Good point. To elaborate this; one has to consider adding an extra
> contact to the starter button or switch or alternatively a relay
> circuit if one wishes to convert a standard A-H to a ballasted system.
> This will give a stronger spark whilst the engine is cranking and the
> battery voltage is reduced but one has to consider whether this is
> worth all the bother.
>
> One related point. On some British 1970s cars, and perhaps many
> others, the ballast resistor is hidden as a length of resistance wire
> in the loom. This can lead to one looking for a visible ballast
> resistor. When one cannot be found one incorrectly assumes that one
> should fit a non-ballast coil. I found this on a car, not a A-H, that
> misfired at higher revs after a so called repairer had been involved.
>
> This is something else in life that I learnt the hard way.
>
> Regards
>
>> I checked a book I have called "Tuning Lucas Ignition Systems." In
>> it, there's a schematic for a ballasted system showing a lead from
>> the ignition switch through a ballast resistor to the coil and one
>> from the starter solenoid to the coil. When cranking the starter, the
>> lead from the solenoid will short around the ballast resistor.
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