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Even better, in the latest 123-ignition you can program any advance
curve you want using a lap top, so ideal if you have a tuned engine.
Kees Oudesluijs
Simon Lachlan schreef op 4-6-2015 om 13:20:
>
> Not 100% sure what you mean by â??the advance curves are retainedâ??. In
> the 123 you can choose your advance curve.
>
> And Iâ??m sure one of the built in choice approximates to the original.
>
> And yes(!), I too have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The correct
> rotor arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee copper wire.
> Fitted with a Pertronix. Points also carried on longer expeditions.
> Belt and braces!!
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 07:33
> *To:* Simon Lachlan
> *Cc:* Bob Spidell; Healey list
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
> The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are
> retained and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points in the
> boot is easy for a backup. I have a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full
> lucas dizzy with attached cam driveshaft in the boot, just in case.
> Call me strange.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan
> wrote:
>
> Or get a 123Ignition distributor.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 06:09
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
> Agree across-the-board. Had same problem with suppressor wires;
> installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles or so.
>
>
>
> re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the Petronics."
> Why? Does he recommend blood-letting and trepanning for headaches? I
> know Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but disagree with the points
> recommendation. Name a modern manufacturer--they of the 100K mile
> tuneups--that recommends points? Have (probably) 80K miles on
> Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no ignition
> issues (save the occasional well-known bad rotor). If you like
> changing points every 5K miles, fine, but it's not the solution to
> every ignition problem.
>
> You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one), stranded
> copper wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor plug caps, good
> plugs, and a quality rotor.
>
> Bob
>
> On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> If you are running suppressed modern wires into your standard
> Lucas cap, you can have huge problems, as the graphite type
> materials they use in these don't like connecting to the screw
> connector in the Lucas cap . You need to use metal core wires,
> such as bumble bee wire.
>
> Also did you check distributor shaft wobble? If your dizzy bushes
> are worn, and you have excessive wobble, you could also be having
> similar problems.
>
> Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the dizzy make
> sure it is all kosher.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay
>
> Took the BJ8 out today. Changed the plug wire to #6 (there was a
> visible spark last night). The car struggled big time Had to
> change rotors every 3 miles in order to get the car home. Driving
> along and all of a sudden backfire, black smoke, nothing. Changed
> the rotor (it was noticeably hot) and got another 2 or 3 miles out
> of it. Looked tonight in the dark and the visible spark from
> number 6 plug was not there. Talked to Jeff with Advanced
> Distributors and he suggested it was plug wires. Strongly
> suggested I install points instead of the Petronics. At his
> suggestion, I checked the ohm reading on the plug wires and they
> checked out OK. Still wondering if it could be bad gas, I did add
> a product called â??Heat.â?? Supposed to absorb any water that may be
> in the gas tank. Not much help, so far.
>
> Iâ??m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap from Moss
> Motors to show up to install them. Hope that helps but not really
> convinced itâ??s the solution.
>
> Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
>
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>
>
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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> Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4355/9939 - datum van uitgifte:
> 06/04/15
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Even better, in the latest 123-ignition
you can program any advance curve you want using a lap top, so
ideal if you have a tuned engine.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Simon Lachlan schreef op 4-6-2015 om 13:20:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:00d001d09eb8$897631a0$9c6294e0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 12 (filtered
medium)">
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Not 100% sure what you mean by â??the
advance curves are retainedâ??. In the 123 you can choose your
advance curve.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> And Iâ??m sure one of the built in
choice approximates to the original.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>And yes(!), I too have a complete
Lucas dizzie in my boot. The correct rotor arm, decent old
Champion plug caps, bumble bee copper wire. Fitted with a
Pertronix. Points also carried on longer expeditions. Belt
and braces!!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Alan Seigrist [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com";>mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com</a>]
<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 04 June 2015 07:33<br>
<b>To:</b> Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Bob Spidell; Healey list<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load</span></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is
the advance curves are retained and also if your pertronix
does fry, keeping points in the boot is easy for a backup.Â
I have a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full lucas dizzy with
attached cam driveshaft in the boot, just in case. Call me
strange.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon
Lachlan <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk";
target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>>
wrote:</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Or get a 123Ignition
distributor.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Healeys [mailto:<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob Spidell<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 04 June 2015 06:09<br>
<b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Missing under
Load</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Agree across-the-board.  Had same
problem with suppressor wires; installed copper
stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles or so.</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead
of the Petronics."  Why? Does he recommend
blood-letting and trepanning for headaches? I
know Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but disagree
with the points recommendation. Name a modern
manufacturer--they of the 100K mile tuneups--that
recommends points? Have (probably) 80K miles on
Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded
wires--with no ignition issues (save the
occasional well-known bad rotor). If you like
changing points every 5K miles, fine, but it's not
the solution to every ignition problem.<br>
<br>
You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can
find one), stranded copper wire secondary wires,
OEM Lucas suppressor plug caps, good plugs, and a
quality rotor.<br>
<br>
Bob</p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan
Seigrist wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">If you are running
suppressed modern wires into your standard
Lucas cap, you can have huge problems, as the
graphite type materials they use in these
don't like connecting to the screw connector
in the Lucas cap . You need to use metal core
wires, such as bumble bee wire. </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Also did you check
distributor shaft wobble? If your dizzy
bushes are worn, and you have excessive
wobble, you could also be having similar
problems.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Lastly, check internal
wires/insulating washers in the dizzy make
sure it is all kosher.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at
9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:050.rpl@gmail.com";
target="_blank">050.rpl@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Took the BJ8 out today.Â
Changed the plug wire to #6 (there was a
visible spark last night). The car
struggled big time Had to change rotors
every 3 miles in order to get the car home.Â
Driving along and all of a sudden backfire,
black smoke, nothing. Changed the rotor (it
was noticeably hot) and got another 2 or 3
miles out of it. Looked tonight in the dark
and the visible spark from number 6 plug was
not there. Talked to Jeff with Advanced
Distributors and he suggested it was plug
wires. Strongly suggested I install points
instead of the Petronics. At his
suggestion, I checked the ohm reading on the
plug wires and they checked out OK. Still
wondering if it could be bad gas, I did add
a product called â??Heat.â?? Supposed to absorb
any water that may be in the gas tank. Not
much help, so far.<br>
<br>
Iâ??m waiting for the plug wires and
distributor cap from Moss Motors to show up
to install them. Hope that helps but not
really convinced itâ??s the solution.<br>
<br>
Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?<br>
<br>
Price Lindsay<br>
67 BJ8</p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
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