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I have used an Eezibleed or similar lightly pressurized system for over
50 years and it has always worked for me on a very large range of vehicles.
A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.
As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back your drum
brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e few small wedges
between pads and discs) to minimise the volume in the brake cylinders
and callipers if the bleed nipples are positioned in such a way that air
can remain trapped in the cylinders or callipers, although this is a
fairly rare occurrence.
Kees Oudesluijs
tom mitchell schreef op 8-7-2015 om 1:49:
>
> The only time I â??ve been able to get a vacuum bleeder to work
> satisfactorily using a short brake line screwed in-place of the bleeder.
>
> It can be a bit messy yet works well.
>
> Mike, any chance of some pictures of what you have?
>
> Tom Mitchell
>
> 1965 Austin Healey BJ8 MKIII
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Michael Salter
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 04, 2015 6:35 PM
> *To:* John Rowe
> *Cc:* Healey List
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
>
> With out any question the best bleeder I have ever used was the
> Snap-On diaphragm brake bleeder that I have owned for at least 30
> years. I don't know if they are still available.
>
> I had to make a special adaptor (using old ski book spring clips) to
> secure it to a Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding
> brakes a really simple one person job which is fast and completely
> removes air from the system.
>
> Like most commenters I have found that the vacuum bleeders never
> produced satisfactory results.
>
> AND I never bleed the brakes in any particular order...:-)
>
> Michael S
>
> BN1 #174
>
> On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au
>
> I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that
> same reason of air entering through the thread of the bleeder
> screw. The bubbles never stop coming! Always resort to the time
> honoured version of opening and closing screws
>
> John Rowe
>
> Qld Australia
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> *Sent:* Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM
> *To:* 'Healey List'
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
>
> Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible.
> ie it is â??best practiseâ?? but, in itself does not guarantee
> success. Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after
> somehow failing to get all the air out. I know that I have.
>
> Iâ??ve got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-
>
> â??If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
> considerable time it is
>
> possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw
> threads. In such cases tighten
>
> the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal
> and allow the pedal to
>
> return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally
> during the last pedal
>
> application.â??
>
> ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy,
> but it works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as
> you close it. Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of
> iron...plenty of wear.
>
> If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open
> the bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.
>
> Worth bearing in mind.
>
> Simon
>
>
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>
>
>
> --
>
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">I have used an Eezibleed or similar
lightly pressurized system for over 50 years and it has always
worked for me on a very large range of vehicles. <br>
A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.<br>
As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back
your drum brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e few
small wedges between pads and discs) to minimise the volume in the
brake cylinders and callipers if the bleed nipples are positioned
in such a way that air can remain trapped in the cylinders or
callipers, although this is a fairly rare occurrence.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
tom mitchell schreef op 8-7-2015 om 1:49:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:008501d0b90f$92cb4f30$b861ed90$@bighealey.org"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
<meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered
medium)">
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>The only time I â??ve been able to get
a vacuum bleeder to work satisfactorily using a short brake
line screwed in-place of the bleeder.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>It can be a bit messy yet works
well.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Mike, any chance of some pictures of
what you have?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Tom Mitchell</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>1965 Austin Healey BJ8 MKIII</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span> Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael
Salter<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, July 04, 2015 6:35 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> John Rowe<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Healey List<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>With out any question the best
bleeder I have ever used was the Snap-On diaphragm brake
bleeder that I have owned for at least 30 years. I don't
know if they are still available.</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>I had to make a special adaptor
(using old ski book spring clips) to secure it to a
Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding
brakes a really simple one person job which is fast and
completely removes air from the system.</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Like most commenters I have found
that the vacuum bleeders never produced satisfactory
results.</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>AND I never bleed the brakes in
any particular order...:-)</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Michael S</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>BN1 #174<br>
<br>
</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John
Rowe <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:john@jtkarowe.com.au";
target="_blank">john@jtkarowe.com.au</a>>
wrote:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU">I have never
had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that
same reason of air entering through the thread of
the bleeder screw. The bubbles never stop coming!Â
Always resort to the time honoured version of
opening and closing screws</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU">John Rowe</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU">Qld
Australia</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU">Â </span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU">Â </span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span>
Healeys [mailto:<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Healey List'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Bleeding brakes</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Bleeding the
furthest brakes is all very well, but not
infallible. ie it is â??best practiseâ?? but, in
itself does not guarantee success. Many of us have
been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow
failing to get all the air out. I know that I
have.</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Iâ??ve got
various manuals and one of my two BMC has this
paragraph:-</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Â </span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">â??If the
bleeding of any cylinder continues without success
for a considerable time it is</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">possible that
air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw
threads. In such cases tighten</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">the bleeder
screw at the end of each downward stoke of the
pedal and allow the pedal to</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">return fully
before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw
finally during the last pedal</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
lang="EN-GB">application.â??</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">ie you close
the bleeder while fluid is still coming out.
Messy, but it works. The theory is that the air
gets past the thread as you close it. Fairly
coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty
of wear.</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Â </span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">If you use an
Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open
the bleeder a little and leave it open until the
bubbles stop.</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Worth bearing
in mind.</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Â </span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon</span><span
lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
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</blockquote>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
-- </p>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span>If you can't fix it with
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problem.</span></i></p>
</div>
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